I885-] 
From Benguella to Garenganze. 
159 
LUNDA COUNTRY. 
This is now Lunda country, although the Balovale are every- 
where to be met. 
December i2>th. — Remained in camp, my men buying fish. The 
chief here treated me very meanly, I consider; after claiming an extra 
large tribute, he sent me in return only some rotten fish and meal. 
igth. — A short journey along the Lutembwa brought us to 
another small chief. Being a relative of Katema's, he would 
have me remain next day, which I did to my sorrow. All 
forenoon was spent in holding out against his demands. I had 
given him eight yards of cloth, for which he gave me a goat, 
and then wanted more cloth, a jacket, etc. After four or five 
hours of this work I began to dose in my chair, and the chief 
rose and left ; he sent his man in the morning, however, to ask 
for more. I could but refuse, and tell the man to go home. 
2Qth. — My friend of yesterday almost succeeded in revenging 
himself for my stubbornness by giving me a guide with instructions 
to mislead me and take me to Dilolo. One of my men, however, 
detected him, and I dismissed him with little ceremony. Camped 
at Kapwita. Here no less than three chiefs turned up. One 
called himself the chief of the Lunda residents ; another, the 
chief of the Lovale residents ; and the third, the " man of the 
country " or land. I managed to get them appeased in measure. 
In spite of their troublesome ways there is much about these 
Balunda I like. Their villages are kept clean, and they have 
good gardens, and the men work in the fields as well as the 
women; this is also common among the Balovale. They seem to 
be more " religious " than their neighbours. One sees continually 
in the forests small clearings about the trunk of some immense 
tree, with a double rail round, and some " fetish thing " in front, 
in the shape of a horn or image, and there the people come to 
offer to their forefathers. Many fetish huts are also to be seen in 
their villages. 
21st. — Crossed the Lutembwa Valley to-day. It is flooded, and 
covered with a forest of immense trees, which have large-spreading 
roots like the mangrove. We waded for some hours through this 
dense forest. The emerald-green mosses, shining through the water, 
contrasted beautifully with the pale ferns clustering round and 
among the tree-roots, and with icicle-like mosses, which hung 
