1 886.] Stay in Garenganze. 
i8i 
We had a toilsome journey before we reached the crest of this 
rugged range. On doing so, however, we were rewarded with 
an extensive view of the beautiful valley of the Luife, lying 
to the south, where there are many villages. Descending as 
quickly as possible, for night was coming upon us, I made 
for the first village ; but we were rather unfortunate in our host. 
He turned out to be an old aristocrat of the country, now 
sadly reduced, and was anything but glad to see us, being more 
inclined to partake of our food than to allow us to share his. 
Nevertheless, we got a shelter of some kind. I cooked a little 
rice, which I had brought with me, and made an early start 
next morning. 
On reaching Kalolo the effect of our appearance was quite 
amusing. The poor people there had evidently never seen a 
white man before, for they seemed very uncertain about me, and 
stood a long way off, gazing in groups. The young men who 
were with me spent their strength in vain efforts to assure them 
that no danger was to be anticipated from my presence. A large 
hut was provided for me, and plenty of raw food laid down, and 
their headman, Monkobe, came in towards evening. He seemed 
to be much more reasonable than the others, and told his wife to 
cook me food, which she did, and to their astonishment I partook 
of it. Few were willing, nevertheless, to sleep in their town that 
night. It was enough to have seen my footprint on the path. 
"His feet are not like men's feet; they are like those of the 
zebra," they said. In the evening I kindled a large fire in front 
of my hut, knowing something of the attraction this is to these 
poor naked people, and after sitting some time I saw it had 
an effect. A little group gathered on the other side of the 
fire, and through the smoke and flames I with difficulty dis- 
tinguished their eyes from their mouths, as all were wide open. 
The numbers gradually increased, until they were no longer able 
to hide themselves behind the fire; and watching my opportunity, 
I began a conversation with them through a young man I had 
with me as interpreter, but a sorry helper he was. His debauchery 
became so abominable that I had literally to drive him off. 
Before returning to my camp I visited a few other villages, and 
met from time to time with strange receptions. One man, who 
had heard the night before of the coming of this "son of the 
