SOME ESSENTIAL POINTS OF ORCHID CULTIVATION. II 
Notwithstanding this wide diversity of essential conditions, the 
majority of Orchids, when placed in a suitable atmosphere, are far 
easier to grow than many other plants ; in fact, a little practical 
assistance obtained through a kind friend will enable any amateur 
to achieve the most unexpected pleasure and success, and his green- 
houses will ever afterwards be the envy of his neighbours and a never- 
failing interest to one and all concerned. 
An essential point to bear in mind in cultivating old plants is that 
too many bulbs may act as a hindrance to the development of the new 
one. By carefully shaking a plant out of the compost it will generally 
be noticed that the live roots are attached to the newer portion of 
the rhizome ; therefore the older portion of the plant, usually 
without any roots whatever, must be sustained at the expense of 
the new bulb. This can easily be proved by selecting a suitable 
plant and running a knife through the rhizome at a point three or 
four bulbs back from the newest growth ; all the bulbs further back 
from this cutting will soon commence to shrivel, thus proving that 
they formerly derived their food supply through this source. By 
carrying out this treatment all the energy of the root system is directed 
to the newest portion, and improved results are readily obtained- 
Although these remarks refer principally to imported Cattleyas and 
similar kinds, they will be found equally applicable to garden-raised 
hybrids that have been in cultivation for at least five years. These 
back portions, instead of being a probable hindrance to the develop- 
ment of the plant, may be turned to profitable account if preserved 
until they commence active growth on their own account, which in 
the majority of cases they will do, when they may be placed in separate 
pots. 
While the majority of warmth-loving Epiphytic Orchids make 
their growth or form the new bulb during the summer months, many 
of the cool-growing section, such as Odontoglossums, commence 
activity in the autumn months and continue through the winter. 
But in practically all cases this period of activity is followed by one 
of rest, during which the amount of heat and water should be lessened. 
In this matter many untrained amateurs frequently bring about 
trouble by being too severe, and unnecessarily lowering the vitality 
of the plant. The main point to remember is that the plant, when 
at rest, requires just sufficient water to prevent it from visibly 
shrivelling, and, at the same time, a slightly lower temperature. 
Rain-water is by far the best water to use, and it should be stored 
inside the house, so that it may be kept about the same temperature. 
Manure in all forms should be avoided ; only in the most experienced 
hands does it yield beneficial results, and then only in the case of 
large specimen terrestrial plants, such as pot-bound Cypripediums 
and Cymbidiums. 
In their native home the roots of epiphytic Orchids are more or 
less exposed to the atmosphere, and any material they enter is usually 
of a porous nature. These conditions must be followed as closely as 
circumstances permit, and amateurs cannot exercise too much care 
