noQdea and thought it w^s a sreat joke. The next day when I got feack all wet 
from scrambling around a TOterfall all the women round about were tb-sre to see 
my gorraents on the line. I had torn my hand that day and got out iodine to put 
on it. What was it? Medicine for the cut. Dulcinea had e stomaoh ache and 
father had sore eyes, please give them some of this medicine. It is so hard to 
exTDlein to people to Vvhom medicine is magic, that one medicine ison't do foj' all 
ills. There is no privacy in these houses. You are treated as one of the femily 
literally. (There is no bedroom; my hamiaock was in the main roc;m, with bags of ^ n 
castor beans.) They looked on as I got out clean clothes and one of their tried my//y 
comb 8nd brush. I begged her accept them as a gift. Just as I was leaving the 
other tried on my hst and I gave her that, returning w Bf liia with a sca^f wrapped 
round my head like a turban. Always they ask if you are married, how many children 
you have, how old you are. I had to answer thet so often I spoko that much Porttiguese 
fluently. Eo sao vieuva, nao tem filhos. 
To return to grasses. I had some glorious days in central Minas and then 
turned eastward to Vi90sa in the matta. There is en agricultural college here, 
established by Dr. Rolfs for the State of Mi!» s. ?/ith Dr. Rolfs and his daughter 
I went to Serra da Grama. We climbed to the siunnit through rain forest, terribly 
hard going, and stayed over night on the open sunmiit. About a week later Miss 
Rolf s and^^I went to t-aparao to ascend Pico de Bendeira. It was an adventino us trip 
the guide we hired got lost and we camped out on the shoulder of the mountain in the 
rain. Next day we ^und the trail and reached a tiny hut with more holes than wall. 
I collected all afternoon in the cold drizzle and next morning we climbed the 
