REPRINTED FROM ORCHARD AND FARM. 
3 -Year-Old Paragon Tree 
European sorts usually are of good 
size, some of the named varieties be- 
ing very largre. Some are of very good 
quality, but their value is in their size 
and liin©, glossy appearance/. They 
bloom late in the spring (last of May 
to early in June) so that they are prac- 
tically a sure ci'op in frosty districts. 
They bear heavily and regularly, 
form a handsome tree and from the 
growers' and market viewpoints, are 
unequaled. The only disadvantage of 
the European type, however, is that 
the skin is astringent, but since most 
of them are cooked before eating, the 
skin is removed readily; in fact, it 
should not be eaten, as it is indi- 
gestible. 
When the European is crossed with 
the American Sweet, this difficulty is 
modified or eliminated. Of the named 
varieties most generally cultivated I 
give herewith a brief description: 
Marron Comhale — Nut, very large, 
round, medium brown; wood, yellowish; 
leaves, brown, narrow and glossy. Very 
productive. Origin, France. 
Marrov Nouzillard — Nut, very large, 
flat, light brown; wood, reddish brown; 
leaves, wide and glossy. Buds have a 
sort of "shoulder." Productive and 
precocious. Origin, Prance. 
Marron Quercy — Nut, medium to large 
round; dark rich brown, glossy 
and handsome, good quality, good 
bearer, usually one nut in a burr. 
Wood ashy; leaves, brown, very large, 
but not very glossy. Precocious. Origin, 
France. 
Numio — Nut, medium-large, rosnd- 
ish, medium light brown, quality fair; 
tree, vigorous, and heavy, regular 
hearer. Origin, doubtful, probably 
European. 
Paragon Sjpi Soher Paragon — Nut, 
fair size, roundish, of only fair quality, 
rather starchy, a good bearer. Origin, 
Germantown, Pa., from seed of Spanish 
type. 
Ridgrly — Nut, fair size, two or three 
to the burr, flavor good; tree, vigorous 
and productive, European type. Origin, 
Dover, Delaware. 
Rochester — Nut, fair size, quality 
very good, a good bearer. (Any of the 
above would sell for Italian or Spanish 
and the very large ones for French 
Marrons.) 
GRABT-^ING AND BUDDING 
Grafting and budding both succeed 
with the chestnut. The skilled grafter 
can get good results with the methods 
used for other trees, but the novice 
must experiment before he attains suc- 
cess. 
Valuable information may be de- 
rived from the U. S. Department of 
Agriculture Bulletin No. 700 on Pecan 
Culture, (obtainable free from the Di- 
vision of Publications, U. S. D. A., 
Washington, D. C). This bulletin gives 
in detail different methods of grafting 
and budding which can be used for the 
chestnut as well as the pecan. 
VARIOUS GRAFTING METHODS ' 
Whip grafts on small shoots or 
stocks the size of a lead pencil or 
slightly larger, or cleft grafts on shoots, 
one-half to one and a half inches, or 
the bark graft on larger growth, prob- 
ably will give the largest measure of 
success. The bark graft on shoots of 
from one-half inch to five inches is 
more successful for the novice, as it 
is very simple. 
In any method of grafting the chest- 
nut, it is essential that great care be 
used in waxing, and then re-waxing 
after about two weeks. The wax 
should cover the cuts made in the 
stock and scion and should be applied 
immediately after inserting the latter. 
The scion also should be waxed for 
its entire length, so that the job is 
sealed from top to bottom; not even 
bubbles should be left. Another pre- 
caution is to cover the whole by tying 
a paper bag over the top. 
Thorough prepara- 
tion of thei soil be- 
fore planting is es- 
sential. Anything that 
can be done after- 
wards will not make 
up for a failure to ob- 
serve this rule. Blast- 
ing may be necessary 
and usually is benefi- 
cial if the ground is 
not too wet. 
For orchard plant- 
ing, the trees should be placed at dis- 
tances of 40x40, 50x50 and 60x60 feet. 
On good land the latter distance is 
preferable. In order to have a greater 
number of trees to the acre the best 
plan is to have the distance between 
trees in the row 20 feet, 25 feet or 30 
feet, and the rows 40 feet, 50 feet or 
60 feet apart. In this event, however, 
it will be necessary to remove every 
other tree after they reach a '.ertain 
size. This latter plan is better than 
planting the entire orchard 20x20, 25x25 
or 30x30 and later removing part of the 
trees. 
A good distance between the rows 
provides for better growth, and fur- 
thermore, the inter-planted tree may 
be left a number of years longer. Again, 
the wide row permits inter-planting to 
vegetables or berries. In any event, it 
is a serious mistake to crowd chest- 
nut trees. 
METHOD OF PLANTING 
After staking out the ground in the 
usual manner, dig holes 2V4x2% feet, 
then break down the top soil around 
the rim, allowing it to fall into the bot- 
tom of the hole. Always use 
fine top soil around the 
roots, and firm the soil well 
by treading. 
Before planting, cut with a 
knife all broken or bruised 
roots and clip the end of 
roots and cut the endi of 
every root. Use only mellow 
top soil about the roots and 
firm it well by treading. 
Leave surface soil loose. 
PROTECTION FROM 
SUN 
During the first year or 
two, chestnut trees must be 
shaded. A good method is 
to protect the young trees 
with yucca or paraffined 
paper protectors, or the 
trunk may be wrapped, to 
branches, with burlap or pa- 
per, care being taken not to 
tie so tight as to interfere 
with the flow of sap. 
In planting the chestnut 
(or any other tree) it is well 
to set no deeper than the 
tree was planted in the nur- 
sery, and to set in the same 
position. As a rule, this can 
be determined by the ap- 
pearance of the bark, the 
north side being greener 
than the south side. Less 
loss from sunburn will re- 
sult if the southern side, 
hardened by exposure, again 
is placed to the south. 
After planting, cut back 
