ing its functions. In ligaturing, the bandage might be made to cover that httle bud, 
though it should not be squeezed too hard, and to run tight enough above and under the 
big bud that should stick out of the bandage. To enable the winding around the bud of 
the bandage, the base of the leaf stalk, always very large with walnuts, has to be previous- 
ly shaved off with a sharp knife, and whUe budding the knife should always be sharp, tc 
permit to ligature the budding tight enough under as well as over the bud. Ihe shaving 
off close to the bark of the oion of the base of the leaf stalk, will leave a mark resembling 
a clover leaf, as shown in figures 4, 5 and 6. The natural faUing off of the leaf stalk m 
the fall leaves on a similar mark. When budding walnut trees m midsummer or early . 
fall witii the trees fully in sap, the bandage should be loosened ten or fifteen days after in- 
sertion and entirely removed another two weeks after; if the budding was done later on 
in the fall then it would not be necessary to loosen the ligature and remove it so soon, 
though it 'would be well to watch. The oions furnishing the buds have to be pretty well 
in sap, and so the stock; with the walnut more particularly, this is a condition sine, qua 
non of success. , . . v. a 
Another very important point inbuddi.ig the walnut, whetherit be shield or ring bud- 
ding is to take the buds from the very base of the cion and where the wood is perfectly 
round and not a kind of angular-like, as it is the case with the upper portion of the cion, 
in fact hardly more than two or three buds can be used from a cion whether one or three 
feet long and that's what makes good buds, or buds fit to be used, so scarce. As oions of . 
the proper size for walnut budding can hardly be had on bearing trees, the best and short- 
est way to procure some, is to out off large limbs six to twelve inches from a fork; all 
around the stump will grow in the ensuing spring lots of shoots, three or four will be al- 
lowed to remain to furnish the number of buds needed. If having no large trees of the 
kind to bud, the best then is to procure three or four year old trees, set them out in nch, 
moist soil, and out them back two inches above the ground, or two inches above the graft, 
if grafted trees, to make them grow shoots from which to get buds for budding purposes, 
which, let it be well remembered, cannot be got but at the base of the shoots, and only Z 
to 3 buds per shoot, no matter how long the latter may be. 
ANNULAR OR RING BUDDING. 
This is the most successful mode of g-.fting the walnut. The operation is simple 
enough, though it has to be done with sojie care. Much of what has been said about 
shield buddini applies with equal force to ring budding. First the stock or shoot to be 
budded must be at least % inch thick, as large as that represented in fig. 5, larger yet the 
better Every portion of the stock or shoot to be budded, is not fit to receive the ring of 
bark; the wood should be not only perfectly round and smooth, leaving on the liber no 
roughness whatever after the removing of the ring of bark, as shown m fig. 5, but tbe 
eyes should also be far enough apart (see fig. 5); if the budding, on that account has to 
be done a little higher up, it does^not matter much, not with the walnut at any rate In 
performing ring buddini, a ring of bark containing a bud, and at least ly. inches long, 
Ee in fig. 6, should be first taken from the base of the con, and in the following manner: 
Two circular incisions are made, one above and the other below the bud, leaving the latter 
right in the center of the ring, and a longitudinal incision ran between the '^o 
ones back of the bud; then with the spatula or end of the budding knife the edges of the 
bark at the longitudinal incision are loosened on each side, about half way round or^ 
inch from the bud; next, with a little twist of the thumb and forefinger, at the same time 
pressing gently down on the bark, to prevent the coroulum getting out or even being 
loosened up, the whole ring of bark is made to come off. Before inserting it of ^l^^ stock 
one of corresponding size is taken from the stock, in a long and smooth space between two 
buds, and in the following manner: The ring of bark from the cion with a bud on is 
placed and spread out on the stock, and circular incisions made in the bark of the stook 
above and below the ring of bark, and a longitudinal incision ran betwe^" t^^e two jircu^^^ 
ones and the ring of bark removed from the stock, and that from the cion in^frtef \° 
place. Should the ring of bark from the cion be too small to run clear around the stock, 
a strip of bark should lave to be left on the latter, leaving only a space big enough to ad- 
mit the insertion of the ring of bark from the cion; if, on the contraiy, it would be too 
wide, a strip should be taken out tiU it would fit exactly the space covered by the img of 
bark'just removed. The budding is then well lig^tped wUh a sof t stnp of d^^^ 
cloth, the bandage being made to wrap around covering al but ^l^^ bud and also above 
and under the circular incisions. The bandage should be loosened m the course of t^wo 
weeks, the same as described with shield budding. As the aking off of f ""f 
of bark weakens up much the stalk so budded, the top should be cut off t°«bout two feet 
from the budding, to prevent accident. Sometimes the ring of bark from he c on goes 
only half way arSund on the stock; such budding should be more properly called plate 
