426 
The  cell  structure  of  most  woods,  as  left  by  the  smoothing-  tools 
of  the  workman,  is  so  open  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  a finished 
surface  without  using  considerable  expensive  polish  or  varnish, 
which  would  have  to  be  applied  in  thin  coats  with  considerable 
time  for  each  to  become  hard.  This  difficulty  is  overcome  by  the 
use  of  a filler,  the  name  implies  its  object.  A cheap,  durable  mix- 
ture is  rubbed  into  the  openings  of  the  wood  forming  a body,  or 
foundation  upon  which  the  finish  is  to  be  placed.  Very  hard, 
close  grained  woods,  as  olive,  lignum  vitae  and  some  species  of 
eucalyptus  do  not  need  the  filler. 
Wood  filler  for  many  kinds  of  woods  may  be  purchased  ready 
for  use.  Cheap  varnish  is  sometim.es  used  as  a filler,  and  shellac 
Monkeypod  shows  the  coarse  structure  that  has  to  be  filled  to  get  a snrface. 
cut  with  alcohol  makes  one  of  the  best  for  work  where  the  pores 
are  not  too  large.  Large  cracks  may  be  filled  with  a composition 
consisting  of  rosin  and  beeswax.  Two  applications  of  filler,  if 
well  applied,  are  usually  satisfactory  for  any  kind  of  finish.  (The 
second  coat  should  not  be  put  on  until  about  36  or  48  hours  after 
the  first.)  Too  much  of  a single  coat  is  apt  to  shrink  away  into 
the  wood.  Equal  parts  of  Japan  drier  and  boiled  linseed  oil , 
thoroughly  mixed,  with  a body  of  corn  starch  to  form  a thick 
putty-like  paste,  thinned  down  to  the  desired  liquid  with  tur- 
pentine, makes  a filler  that  is  suitable  for  most  woods..  Instead  of 
corn  starch,  some  earthy  material  as  plaster  of  paris,  whiting  or 
pumice  stone  is  sometimes  used,  but  the  old  reliable  corn  starch 
has  proven  satisfactory. 
Just  a few  words  as  to  those  materials  that  form  the  filler : 
