36 WANDERINGS IN CHINA, Chap. III. 
finely ornamented with those half-circular erections so 
common in the south of China, and at other times mth- 
out any ornament whatever ; this of course depending 
upon the wealth of the relatives. The hills are like 
those near Amoy, rocky and barren, having here and 
there a few wild plants growing on the sides of the 
ravines ; some of which, however, are very beautiful. 
The pagoda, already mentioned, stands on the ' top of 
the highest hill, and ajBfords an excellent landmark to the 
vessels on the coast. 
On my way towards the hills I was frequently sur- 
rounded by hundreds of the Chinese, and was evidently 
considered a great natural curiosity. The country, 
although barren, teems with inhabitants ; indeed, I 
almost thought the very stones were changing into 
Chinamen, so rapidly did the crowd accumulate at 
times. The sight was droll enough : — ^here were I and 
my servant on one side of some ravine, with our speci- 
men boxes and other implements, gathering samples of 
everything we could find ; there, on the top of the 
other, stood three or four hundred of the Chinese, of 
both sexes and all ages, looking down upon us with 
wonder painted in every countenance. And then, their 
features, their manners and costume, were all so striking 
to a stranger, that I believe our surprise and curiosity 
were mutual. They were generally civil, but I ran a 
risk at last of getting into trouble, on account of a silk 
neckcloth which I had on, and to which some of them 
took a great fancy, telling me that it would look so well 
round their heads — for in this part of China they wear a 
handkerchief like a turban. I was much amused mth 
