]28 
WANDERINGS IN CHINA. 
Chap. VIII. 
the same manner as I had done in the northern pro- 
vinces. I very soon, however, found out my mistake, 
and in a most disagreeable manner. There were some 
hills behind the city, a few miles distant, which I had 
often wished to visit for the purpose of examining their 
botanical productions. One morning I started off through 
the town, in the direction of these hills ; and after 
walking between two and three miles I reached the 
suburbs on the side of the town opposite to that where 
the foreign factory stands. The sounds of Fanhwei,"^ 
with which I was assailed in the early part of my walk, 
had now nearly ceased, and I began to imagine that I 
had got out from amongst the impertinent boys and low 
Chinese whom one continually meets in the back streets 
of Canton. 1 was now on a good road, amongst fields 
and gardens, and had an excellent view of the sur- 
rounding country and hills. How very strange, thought 
I, that the foreign residents in the factories never avail 
themselves of the opportunity of coming here, when 
they might enjoy the fresh air, and see the country, 
which would help to relieve the monotonous life they 
are compelled to lead ! 
As I was walking quietly along I met a Chinese 
soldier on horseback, who by gestures and words did 
everything in his power to induce me to retrace my 
steps. I knew nothing of the Canton dialect at this 
time, and, as I thought he only wished to prevent me 
from taking a walk in the country, I paid no attention 
to him, but passed onwards. Soon afterwards, however, 
I began to suspect the ill intentions of several groups of 
* Literally, " foreign devil.*' 
