188 WANDERINGS IN CHINA. Chap. XI. 
search of plants, and that they must take a supply of 
rice for several days. My Chinese servant, who always 
accompanied me, also informed them that it was a com- 
mon thing for me to wander about the country in search 
of plants, but that I was perfectly harmless, and would 
take care that they should not get into any trouble on 
my account. This gave them some confidence, and as 
the wind and tide were both in our favour we were soon 
a considerable distance away from Shanghae. As I knew 
pretty well in what direction Soo-chow lay, I took my 
course by a pocket compass which I always carried with 
me. After getting twenty or thirty miles from Shanghae 
I judged it prudent to break the subject of my wishes 
to my companions. First of all, I took my servant 
aside ; he was a most active fellow, and capable of per- 
suading the others to do anything he liked. ^' Now,'' 
said I to him, " I want to visit Soo-chow, and if you will 
persuade the boatmen to go on there I will make you a 
present of five dollars when we return : besides, you may 
tell the men that I shall double the amount of the hire 
which I have already promised them." Upon this a 
long conference ensued, the result of which was that they 
determined to accept my offer. 
I was, of course, travelling in the Chinese costume ; 
my head was shaved, I had a splendid wig and tail, of 
which some Chinaman in former days had doubtless 
been extremely vain ; and upon the whole I believe I 
made a pretty fair Chinaman. Although the Chinese 
countenance and eye differ considerably from those of a 
native of Europe, yet a traveller in the north has far 
greater chance of escaping detection than in the south 
