Chap. XI. 
SOO-CHOW VISITED. 
193 
lanterns were moving in great numbers on the bridges 
and sides of the canal, and in a few minutes more we 
were safely moored, among some hundreds of other 
boats, under the walls of this celebrated city. Having 
taken all the precautions in our power against another 
nightly visitor, my servant, the boatmen, and myself, 
were soon fast asleep. 
With the first dawn of morning I was up, and dressed 
with very great care by my Chinese servant, whom I 
then despatched to find out the nursery gardens in the 
city, in order to procure the plants which I wanted. 
When he had obtained this information he returned, and 
we proceeded together into the city, in order to make 
my selections. 
When I left the boat I confess I felt rather nervous 
as to the trial I was about to make. Although I had 
passed very well as a Chinaman in the country districts, 
I knew that the inhabitants of large towns, and particu- 
larly those in a town like this, were more difficult to 
deceive. My old friends, or I should rather say my 
enemies, the dogs, who are as acute as any Chinaman, 
evidently did not disown me as a countryman, and this 
at once gave me confidence. These animals manifest 
very great hatred to foreigners, barking at them wherever 
they see them, and hanging on their skirts until they are 
fairly out of sight of the house or village where their 
masters reside. 
As I was crossing the bridge which is built over the 
moat or canal on the outside of the city walls, numbers 
of the Chinese were loitering on it, leaning over its sides^ 
and looking down upon the boats which were plying to 
VOL. I. K 
