264 
WANDERINGS IN CHINA. 
Chap. XVI. 
surprised at my success thus far, as I had anticipated 
my greatest if not my only difficulty would have been in 
making a start. I found afterwards that I was indebted 
for this to my Chinese servant, who happened to be a 
native of Chinhae and knew the captain of the junk. 
He persuaded him that there was no harm in my going 
by that route ; and, at all events, that he could easily 
land me at Chapoo, and that nobody would know how I 
had come there. 
In the evening, after many delays on account of wind 
and tide, and also with the view of securing more 
passengers and cargo, we lifted our anchor and set sail. 
In crossing the bay of Hangchow, the tide runs very 
rapidly, and the Chinese junks and boats never go 
across without a fair or leading wind. I shall never 
forget the strange and motley group of passengers who 
were my fellow-travellers in this little vessel. We were 
all huddled together in the centre cabin, and our beds 
were spread down on each side, merely leaving room for 
us to walk down the middle. Some of the passengers 
were respectable merchants, but even these had some- 
thing filthy and disagreeable about them. Little insects 
whose names sound harsh to " ears polite " were 
charitably supported in great numbers amongst the 
warm folds of their dresses. The first thing I did 
when my bed was spread down was to surround it 
with my trunks, gun-case, and another box or two, to 
prevent, if possible, any visitors of this description from 
leaving their rightful lord and master, and taking up 
their quarters with me. With all my care it^ was next 
to impossible to keep myself apart from the Chinese, 
