48 
NARRATIVE. 
of them, and the Tibetans, in passing, always keep on 
the left-hand side. When a Tibetan is about to 
undertake any task it is usual to go to a Lama and 
purchase a few slates with the mystic words carved 
on them ; these are deposited on some mane, and 
are supposed to ensure success in the work about to 
be undertaken. At Lama Yuru there is a very large 
monastery, said to be inhabited by about a hundred 
Lamas. I noticed in Ladak several sects of these 
priests, distinguished by the colour of their dress ; thus 
in some places yellow Lamas prevail, but a dull red is 
the usual colour. The yellow Lamas were said to be 
a more modern and stricter sect. They are all jolly- 
looking fellows, and not unlike, in their dress and 
general appearance, the monks one sees in Roman 
Catholic countries. They own a great deal of the 
land, which they cultivate themselves, and many of 
the monasteries are said to be very wealthy. In all 
the monasteries the prayer-wheels form a prominent 
feature. These are cylinders of wood or copper, of 
very various sizes, and each contains a roll of paper 
or parchment, on which prayers are inscribed. Each 
turn of the wheel is equal to repeating a prayer ; but 
if turned in the wrong direction, I believe it represents 
an imprecation. Most of the prayer- wheels are turned 
by hand, but occasionally one sees near a village a 
large one turned by water. 
Half the population of Laddk seem to have 
adopted the monastic life. I saw few nuns, or 
perhaps I did not distinguish them. Polyandry 
is said to be common, all the brothers of one 
family having one wife in common. From our 
rapid progress through the country and ignorance of 
