21 
III. KASHMIR. 
From the summit of the Banihal Pass, whicli 
is about 9000 feet above the sea, we saw below 
us the Eastern part of the far-famed valley of 
Kashmir, the first view of which at this season 
is rather disappointing, for the whole valley is nothing 
more nor less than a vast swamp of rice-fields, and the 
steam rising from the flooded plain limited our view 
to the neighbourhood of Verndg, where our next 
camp was to be, about eight miles distant, and nearly 
4000 feet below us. 
We had, however, a tolerably good view of the 
snowy ranges on the northern side of the valley, and 
between us and Vernag there was a dense and very 
varied forest, consisting chiefly of deciduous trees, 
covering the northern slope of the pass from summit 
to base. Before reaching Yernag, at four p.m., we were 
overtaken by the* thunderstorm which had been 
threatening all day ; this storm lasted throughout the 
night, and rain fell in torrents. Most of our baggage 
was thoroughly wetted, and we had to halt next day 
to dry our tents. Next evening we had a repetition 
of the thunderstorm, which continued all night as 
before ; and we had to wait until the afternoon of 
the following day before we could proceed to 
Achibal, twelve miles distant. 
At Vernag there are several rest-houses, with 
tolerably good accommodation. They are built close to 
a famous tank of very clear blue water. This tank 
is built round with masonry, and is eighteen feet deep. 
An immense stream issues from it, and forms one of 
the many sources of the Jhelum river, called here the 
