68 
NARRATIVE, 
clottiing, with a loose overcoat of sheepskin, having 
the woolly side towards the person. This great- 
coat extends to the ankles, and completely covers 
the feet when the wearer is in the sleeping 
posture. It has very long sleeves, which extend 
several inches beyond the tips of the fingers, and 
keep the hands warm. Although we frequently had 
the temperature nearly as low as zero, none of these 
men ever appeared to suffer from the cold. When 
fuel was to be had they used to make a fire of an 
evening, and sit round it talking and laughing until 
past midnight, and when the fuel was done they re- 
tired to their stony couches. They are a very dirty 
race, and scarcely ever change their clothing until it 
is completely worn out ; and most of them are clothed 
in such a mass of rags, that I doubt if their dress 
could ever be put on again if once taken off. They 
are said to be only washed twice — viz., once after 
they are born, and once again after they die. And, 
as may be imagined, they are not pleasant com- 
panions to be near on the line of march. As a rule 
they are a very good-natured, jolly set of fellows, and 
they usually hum a song whilst trudging along with 
their loads. These they never carry on their heads, 
as the Indian porters do, but always on their backs, 
supported by two loops of rope through which the 
arms are passed, similar to the way in which the 
soldiers' knapsacks used to be carried. It is not 
unusual for the Ladak women to act as porters. 
Every Ladaki is constantly occupied in curing 
sheep-skins for clothing. This is done by simply 
rubbing the skin between the hands, in order to make 
it soft whilst it is being dried ; and the smell from 
