DESERT. 
69 
these skins, when a week old, is sometimes quite over- 
powering. The uncleanly habits of the Bots may 
possibly have something to do with enabling them 
to endure cold better than they otherwise could do, 
and it is certain that they stand, without injury, and 
apparently without any inconvenience, a degree of 
cold which would be dangerous to most Europeans. 
I should mention, however, that when Hayward 
explored the source of the Yarkand river in 
December, 1868, he travelled without a tent, and 
surveyed a very large tract of country with the ther- 
mometer as low as 18° F. below zero at night, and 
only about 5° F. during the day ; so that a European 
of energy and determination may stand the same 
exposure as these men do, but certainly not 
without very great suffering. During the whole of 
our march I never heard the Bots complain, nor was 
there any sickness amongst them. At Pang Lung 
we met Bakshi Eam, the native Joint Commissioner 
of Ladak, who was associated with Dr. Cayley to 
represent the Maharajah's interests in looking after 
the trade to and from Central Asia. Bakshi Edm 
had been educated for the medical profession. He was 
about 65 years of age, and this being his first year 
in of&ce, he had gone to inspect the new trade route ; 
but, after going four marches beyond this point, he 
found the difficulties and privations so great, for a 
man of his years, that he was obliged to return. In 
answer to my question, if he had got over the top of 
the highest pass, he said, " Yes, but four marches 
beyond this I found it all top !" and this description 
gives a very good idea of the impression we after- 
wards formed. 
