SANJU TO Y ARK AND. 
115 
supply of iodine in various forms. Our baggage, 
after leaving Sanju, was carried on the backs of 
bullocks. These want the Indian hump, and, although 
very poor-looking animals, are wonderfully hardy, and 
carry the loads admirably. A number of artisans 
and old soldiers had been entertained by Mirza 
Shadi in the Panjab and Kashmir, and had come with 
him to Yarkand under promise of very high pay. 
One man, who had formerly been a sergeant in our 
native army, had the promise of a colonelcy in 
Yarkand and 400/. a year to start with. To-day I 
came up with this man on the road, and found 
him in a state of great distress. He had learned 
from some Panjabi traders, whom he had met, that 
beyond food and clothing he need never expect any 
pay, and moreover would never be allowed to leave 
the country. 
Mr. Shaw had not brought his tent beyond Sanju, 
and the mosque at Oi Tograk being the best house in 
the village, was made over to him to reside in. 
Indian Mussulmans would have considered this the 
height of desecration, but the Yarkandis, although 
probably the most bigoted Mahomedans in the world, 
seem to consider Protestant Christians simply as very 
low-church Mussulmans, who are not at all attentive 
to the outward forms of religion. Christian churches 
which use images of any sort are looked on as 
idolatrous, and classed with Hindus. 
From Oi Tograk to Bora was a short march of 
twelve miles, over the same sort of country as yester- 
day. We met a string of Bactrian camels carrying 
merchandize to Ladak. The men in charge of the 
caravan informed us that nothing was known re- 
I 2 
