Chap. VI. 
SILVER ISLAND. 
91 
Chinese troops, who might be exasperated if they came in 
contact with those who had vanquished them during the 
late war. Having all these matters in my mind, I 
naturally expected to find this a very important place ; 
but my ideas with regard to its soldiers and riches were 
not realized. Small villages are scattered over the valleys, 
but there is no town of importance, and judging from 
appearances the inhabitants generally are very poor. No 
fierce soldiers were met with in any part of the island ; 
these, however, might have been withdrawn since 1844. 
The inhabitants, like those of Chusan and Ning-po, 
are quiet and inoffensive. They were very civil to me, 
and often treated me with great kindness. They had 
little to offer but their good will ; and this they showed 
by asking me to sit down in their houses, or, what was 
often preferable, under the awning in front of the door. 
Here they never failed to offer a draught of the national 
beverage — tea. I do not know anything half so re- 
freshing on a hot summer's day as a cup of tea : I mean 
pure and genuine as the Chinese drink it, without sugar 
and milk. It is far better and much more refreshing 
than either wine or beer. It quenches thirst, is a gentle 
stimulant, and wards off many of the fevers incident to 
such a climate. 
If Silver Island is not inhabited by rich men and 
brave soldiers, nature at least has been most bountiful, 
for it is one of the most beautiful of the group to which 
it belongs. On paying it a visit at this time I was par- 
ticularly struck with the scenery. Passing through the 
small town or village of Leh-kong, I soon came to the 
foot of the first range of hills, and ascended the pass 
