Chap. VIII. 
A BULLY. 
127 
man," and adopt the costume of the country. When this 
operation was finished I doubt whether my nearest 
friends would have known me. Indeed, when I looked 
into the glass I scarcely recognised myself. " You will 
do very well,'' said my servant ; " and when we reach 
the town of Nan-che I shall buy a summer hat, which 
will make the dress more perfect.'' 
The next morning at daylight we found ourselves 
passing a town of considerable size, named Yu-yeou, 
which had been visited by our troops during the war. 
This is a walled city. The walls and ramparts enclose a 
hill of considerable extent, on whose summit many 
Buddhist temples have been erected. The suburbs 
stretch along the banks of the river, and form the prin- 
cipal part of the town. A few miles beyond this the 
river becomes narrow, and seems to be lost in a network 
of canals, showing that we were near its source. Soon 
after this we arrived at the drawbridge, or inclined plane, 
which I have noticed in a former chapter. 
A curious circumstance happened whilst we, with 
about fifty other boats, were waiting for our turn of the 
windlass. Most of these boats had come from Ning-po 
with the same tide as ourselves, and were going to the 
little town or village of Pak-wan. We had to wait 
about an hour until our turn came. During this time a 
strong noisy fellow of a boatman, evidently a bully, who 
was astern of us all, began to get impatient, and came 
pushing past the other boats, thinking to get over before 
his turn came. Amidst a great deal of clamour and 
threats he succeeded in passing many of the boats ahead 
of him, and at last got as far as mine. As we had been 
