ClIAP. IX. 
TEA COOLIES— INNS. 
149 
country roads at home ; but, in so far as a quiet country 
road was concerned, I was soon undeceived. Long trains 
of coolies were now met, loaded with tea which was des- 
tined for Hang-chow-foo, and thence for Shanghae, to be 
sold to the English and American merchants. As my 
chair-bearers walked very fast, we likewise passed great 
numbers on the road going the same way as ourselves. 
These were hands returning after having got rid of 
their loads at Chang-shan ; but they were not returning 
empty-handed ; they were loaded with raw cotton, cotton 
goods, lead, and various other articles, which had either 
been imported from foreign parts, or produced in coun- 
tries nearer the sea. At nearly every le of the road as 
we went along we found inns and tea-shops. The road 
in front of these houses was generally thatched over, in 
order that those who stopped for refreshment might be 
protected from the sun and rain. 
When we had journeyed in this way about thirty le, 
my chair- bearers said they must rest awhile and have 
some refreshment. I readily agreed to this proposition, 
as I was rather thirsty myself, and desired them to set 
me down at the first house we came to, which they 
accordingly did. We walked into the house, and I took 
a seat at one table, while my servant and the chair- 
bearers seated themselves at another. The good lady of 
the house set down a teacup before each of us, into 
which she put some tea, and then filled each cup up 
with boihng water. I need scarcely say she did not 
offer us any sugar or milk. Other tables were crowded 
with people, most of whom were coolies going to Chang- 
shan with tea, and whose chests nearly blocked up the 
