UUNTINGS' NUKSEMIKS, SEI.BYVILLK. Mlil- 
than in any other. As a general thing, trees are planted 
in the ground precisely as they are' sent from the nursery. 
In removing a tree, no matter how carefully it may be 
done, a portion of the roots are broken and destroyed, 
and consequently the balance that existed in the struc- 
ture of the tree is deranged. This must be restored by 
a proper pruning, adapted to the size, form, and con- 
dition of the tree, as follows: 
Standard Orchard Trees^ — These, as sent from the nurs- 
ery, vary from five to seven feet in height, with naked 
stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top 
forming a head. These branches should all be cut back 
to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens 
the demand upon the roots, and enables the remaining 
buds to push with vigor. Cut off smoothly all bruised 
' or broken roots up to the sound wood. In case of older 
trees, of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion; 
as a general thing it will be safe to shorten all the 
previous year's shoots to three or four buds at their 
base, and where the branches are very numerous some 
may be cut out entirely. 
Yearling Trees Intended for Pyramids — Some of these 
may have a few side branches, the smallest of which 
should be cut clean away, reserving only the strongest 
and the best placed. In other respects they should be 
pruned as directed for trees of two years' growth. Those 
having no side branches should be cut back so far as to 
insure the production of a tier of branches within twelve 
inches of the ground. A strong yearling, four to six feet, 
may be cut back about half, and the weaker ones more 
than that. It is better to cut too low than not low 
enough, for if the tier of branches be not low enough 
the pyramidal form cannot afterward be perfected. 
Planting — Dig holes in the first place large enough to 
admit the roots of the tree to spread out in their natural 
position; then, having the tree pruned as before directed, 
let one person hold it in an upright position, and the 
other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest 
and the best from the surface in among the roots, filling 
every interstice, and bringing every root in contact with 
the soil. When the earth is nearly filled in, a pail of 
water may be thrown on to settle and wash in the earth 
around the roots; then fill in the remainder and tread 
gently with the foot. The use of the water is seldom 
necessary, except in dry weather early in fall or late 
in spring. Guard against planting too deep; the trees, 
after the ground settles, should stand in this respect as 
they did in the nursery. In very dry. gravelly ground, 
the holes should be dug twice the usual size and depth, 
and filled in with good loamy soil. 
Always remove the straw and moss from the package 
before planting. Never put manure so as to come in 
contact with the roots of any plant or tree. Use only 
good soil on and around the roots. 
The foregoing has been prepared with the greatest 
care, and with a special desire to aid our customers in 
the growth and care of their tsock. 
Staking — If the trees are tall and much exposed to 
winds, a stake should be planted with the tree, to which 
it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. 
A piece of matting or cloth may be put between the tree 
and the stake. 
.Mulching — When the tree is planted throw around It 
as far as the roots extend, and a foot beyond, five or 
six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is 
particularly necessary in dry ground, and is highly advan- 
tageous everywhere both in spring and fall planting. It 
prevents the ground from baking or cracking, and main- 
