322 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[April 23, 1^8. 
The Course of the Logs, 
BY A. E. STEARNS. 
"The Connecticut River rises in the Connecticut 
lakes, flows in a soutlierlj^ direction between Vermont 
and New Hampshire, then through Massachusetts and 
Connecticut, and empties into Long Island Sound." 
Such is the formula we learned as schoolboys from our 
geographies. To most of us the lower Connecticut is 
familiar enough, and perhaps not altogether attractive. 
But how man}' know anything about its source and its 
upper waters? I have lived for years near the old river; 
have floated on it; skated on it; fished on it; bathed in 
it; and enjoyed its beaut}'- from the shore. But not until 
this last summer did I become acquainted with its birth- 
place. For years I had watched the logs floating silently 
by toward the fate that awaited them at some remote 
saw mill, and each year served to strengthen within 
me the desire to follow myself the wandering course of 
those logs. Finally the desire prompted to action, and 
on the first of August I set out with a friend for the 
northern corner of New Hampshire, where nestle the 
three Connecticut lakes, the sources of the river. 
Of the country about the lakes little need be said. 
Civilization practically ends with the first and largest 
lake. Leaving this, the tourist plunges at once into 
the woods, which extend for miles north, east and west. 
About nine miles beyond First Lake we find Second 
Lake, somewhat smaller, but with wilder and more beau- 
tiful surroundings. Eight miles away lies Third Lake, 
the smallest, but most beautiful, of the three bodies of 
water. From the eastern shore of Second Lake an old 
trail strikes across to Range! ey, and no better description 
can be given of the Connecticut lake region than to say 
that it closely resembles that of the Rangeleys. Thickly 
wooded hills on all sides; the lakes nestling quietly at 
their feet;_ and numeroris trox;t streams tumbling noisily 
down their sides. 
We camped for two weeks on an inlet to Second Lake; 
fished and tramped to our heart's content; and tben, 
having decided that we had become sufficiently well ac- 
■ quainted with the birthplace of the river, Ave packed up 
our goods and prepared to follow "the course of the 
logs." 
_ Between the lakes the river is little more than a good- 
sized trout stream, and for about twenty miles below 
First Lake its channel is so wide and rocky as to render 
it altogether unsuitable for a canoe. So we decided 
to launch our cedar craft at West Stewartstown, and 
from there trust ourselves to the fortunes of the water. 
Sunday morning. Aug. 22. found Us ready to start. 
The day was all that could be desired, and as West 
Stewartstown oft'ered few attractions for the Sabbath, 
we decided to drop down the river a few miles until we 
should come to a suitable place for dinner and our 
weekh' 'Svashing bee." 
The canoe was heavily laden, and for the first half 
mile the water was shallow; but the channel soon deep- 
ened, and we glided along with nothing to disturb us. 
The scenery along this section of the river is attractive, 
but not wild enough to be ideal. Cultivated farm lands 
extend down to the banks on either side, while in the 
distance gently rising hills stretch away for miles. 
Toward noon an attractive-looking sand beach came 
in sight. Directing our course toward it, we landed, and 
were soon in the water, forgetful of everything but the 
week's collection of soiled linen. In camp life what 
the weekly washing list lacks in size is more than offset 
by quality, and the river had speedily assumed a muddy 
hue. But the last garment was .soon spread out on 
the neighboring bushes to dry, and after a final plunge 
in the river we fell to for dinner. Baked beans, bread 
and butter and coffee, our customary "quick lunch," 
furnished our repast, and then we stretched out under the 
shade of the bushes to enjoy a snooze. My companion 
was soon in dreamland, but while T was still in that 
drowsy transitional stage I heard a slight splash out in 
the water, and glancing out in the direction of the sound 
I saw s. large muskrat making his way across the river. 
The rifle was near at hand, and the temptation to try 
a shot too strong to be resisted. Aiming directly over 
my companion's prostrate form, I fired. The aim was 
poor, and the animal disappeared with a splash; but the 
report of the rifle had given a new turn to the course 
of my companion's dreams. He jumped to his feet as 
though surrounded by Indians. "What was that?" he 
demanded, excitedly. I pointed to the widening circles 
on the surface of the water and explained the situation. 
He rubbed his eyes for a moment, grunted a few times 
as though disgusted with my levity, and was soon asleep 
again. At just this moment another muskrat, encour- 
aged, no doubt, by the good fortune of his companion, 
and desirous of showing his contempt for me and my 
rifle, put out from the shore and started across the 
stream. That wouldn't go, and this time when the rifle 
cracked a kicking form remained on the surface of the 
stream. 
"What in thunder are you trying to celebrate?" de- 
manded the disturbed sleeper, as he again leaped to his 
feet. 
"Same as before," I answered. "I don't intend to lie 
here and have those creatures dare me like that. I'll 
take a dare from some people, but not from a muskrat." 
But sleeping time was now over. The washing was 
dry, and picking up our goods we started on down the 
river. Darkness had settled before we found an accepta- 
ble landing place for the night. Supper was cooked on 
the shore, and then striking back from the river for a 
few rods we came to a large pasture. A group of hem- 
lock trees in the middle of it looked attractive, and' we 
made for them. The place proved to be all we could 
desire, and while the bells were calling the good people 
of the neighboring town of Colebrook to evening wor- 
ship we rolled up in our blankets and prepared for rest. 
Sleep soon had us in its embrace, and it was not until 
a flock of boisterous crows began their morning praise 
service over our heads that we regained consciousness. 
It proved to be almost 5 o'clock, and so we folded our 
phxikeis started for the river, A good fire 900151 
drove the stiffness from our joints, and after a warm 
breakfast we were anxious to be ofif again. 
Conditions favored us as we started on our second 
day's cruise. The light work of the previous day had 
left us free from blisters and lameness, and now with a 
clear sk)'^ overhead and swift water beneath us, we count- 
ed on making good headway. The country through 
which we were passing remained about the same as that 
of the day before, though occasionally a bend in the 
river would reveal the hazy outlines of the White Moun- 
tains, which promised us some glorious scenery in the 
near future. 
As we paddled alqng the water grew swifter, and it 
became necessary to keep a sharp lookout for hidden 
rocks, for our canoe was none too light. Once we barely 
escaped a catastrophe. While bowling along through 
some swift water at a merry clip, our boat suddenly 
glided up on top of a submerged rock that threatened us 
with instant destruction; but by jumping overboard be- 
fore the craft could swing around I managed to get her 
clear, and myself well soaked. But that was part of the 
programme. About noon a piece of water loomed up 
ahead that looked ominous. We landed and surveyed 
the cortrse. We decided that a light canoe could easily 
run through, and as my companion expressed his willing- 
ness to sack some of the heaviest and most valu- 
able articles along the shore, I agreed to pilot the boat 
through the objectionable stretch of water. The trip 
was soon completed, and at the end of the rough water 
we halted for dinner. Dainties from a nearby farm- 
house helped to fill out our bill of fare, and after our 
customary loafing period, "to settle our dinner," we were 
again on our way. 
It was nearly 4 o'clock when we reached a stretch 
of water called Lyman Falls, a place about which we 
had been cautioned by log drivers before starting on 
our trip. After a careful survey of the course the same 
scheme we had followed so successfully in the morning 
suggested itself, and we set out to carry it into execu- 
tion. Allowing my companion to get a good starts I 
pushed off from the shore, and the canoe was soon tear- 
ing through the swift water at a lively pace. The situa- 
tion was just beginning to grow enjoyable, when there 
came a sudden bump, and I found myself in the water 
with the canoe on top of me. Disentangling mj^self as 
best I could, I began a fierce conflict to save our half- 
submerged craft from being dashed to pieces on the 
rocks. The force of the water, its varying depths, and 
the uncertain footing I was able to secure, coupled with 
the weight of the boat, noAV filled with Avater, made my 
task a difficult one. But at last my eflForts were re- 
warded, and I had the runaway craft Avedged fast betAveen 
tAvo rocks Avhere I kneAV it was safe for the time being 
at least. Then I started down the shore, hoping to OA'er- 
take the fast disappearing goods that were tearing like 
mad down the stream. It was useless. They were traA^-- 
eling too fast for me, and all I could do now was to shout 
for my companion. He heard me, and dropping his 
pack, plunged into the river. But some of the articles 
had already sunk, and those that still floated were spread 
out OA'er so Avide a territory when they went by him that 
he could rescue little. The paddles, however, Avere saved, 
and we went back with a good deal of anxiety to exam- 
ine into the condition of the canoe. Alas! one glance 
Avas enough to conAdnce us that it must visit a repair 
shop. Our tent and all of our provisions had been 
washed away in the Avreck, and it was evident that Ave 
must practically begin our trip over again. But just 
now it Avas necessary to get dry, and a huge fire Avas 
soon roaring on tlie shore. As Ave danced around the 
warm blaze in scanty attire, Ave discussed plans for the 
future. That Ave Avere in no condition to pass the night 
on the beach was evident. Shelter must be sought else- 
Avhere. 
Drawing on our still Avet garments, Ave hid our goods 
in the bushes and climbed a steep bank behind us to 
explore the country. Fortune had not altogether de- 
serted us. Near at hand Avere some farmhouses, and in 
one of these Ave Avere soon resting while our good host 
and his wife did all they could to make us comfortable. 
Our clothes were dried, our hungry stomachs satisfied, 
and then the guest room was placed at our disposal for 
the night. 
When Ave appeared the next morning we found that 
our host had already inspected our battered craft and had 
arranged to carry it for us to the neighboring tOAvn of 
North Stratford, Avhere we hoped to find the necessary 
repair shop. And so, having done justice to the good 
wife's breakfast, Ave climbed on to the old man's hay 
rack, and after loading the canoe jogged along to North 
Stratford. But here disappointment Avas in store for 
us. The necessary materials Avere not to be had m the 
town, and Ave were reluctantly compelled to ship the 
boat by freight to Wells River, the nearest town in Avhich 
there Avas any prospect of our obtaining the desired re- 
sults. Rain had begun to fall as we boarded the train 
for Wells River, and when we reached that town late 
in the evening we Avere thoroughly disgusted. To be 
sure we had not lost a great deal of the river trip, for 
betAveen North Stratford and Wells River the greater 
part of the course is taken up Avith what is known as 
Fifteen Mile Falls, a long stretch of rapids, practically 
a continuous carry; and yet Ave were reluctant to lose 
even that part of the river, for the idea of resorting to 
a railroad was most repulsive to us. 
Clear weather greeted us the next morning, and our 
spirits improved. As the boat had not yet arrived we 
spent the time laying in another stock of provisions 
for our now empty larder. During the afternoon the 
canoe arrived. In company with an assistant of the man 
Avho was to repair our craft I drove to the freight office. 
But we had no sooner loaded the thing on the wagon 
than the horse took fright, and making a sudden turn 
dumped the boat over the side and doAvn a neighboring 
bank, where it lodged among the bushes. The horse Avas 
quieted, and after some little difficulty we once more 
had the canoe on the Avagon. It did not rest easy, 
however, and I agreed to walk behind and steady it to 
prevent any undue straining. Again Ave started, and 
once more tlie horse began to show signs of fright. In 
his attempts to check him the driver suddenly found a 
broken rein in his hand, and now all he could do was to 
crouch in the bottom of the Avagon and let the beast 
choose his own .course and speed. The course suited 
me all right, but the speed was growing too rapid. For 
a few yards I held on bravely, but as the frightened ani- 
mal increased his stride I saw that I and the canoe were 
doomed. Still I raced madly on, horrible visions of a 
shattered boat and an inglorious railroad ride home 
rising before me. But the crisis came. A sudden lurch 
sent the canoe out into the road, while I sailed on over it 
and lit in a heap several yards beyond. As soon as 1 
could regain my wind I pulled myself together and limped 
back to survey the wreck. In some miraculous way the 
boat had apparentlj^ escaped uninjured, and I sat doWft 
to wait for developments. The horse meanwhile had run 
all the Avay to the shop, a good mile aAvay. Here a new 
rein Avas secured and the team returned for its load. I 
assured my friend that Ave would take no more chances, 
and though he remonstrated I compelled him to lead 
his steed by the bridle until we had reached our destina- 
tion in safety. 
Another morning dawned bright and clear, and after 
a little more tinkering the boat Avas ready to be launched 
again. _ W"e breathed a sigh of relief Avhen a bend in the 
river hid from our view the smoke and dust of the town, 
and as the scenery had improved and the water favored 
us we gave ourselves up to the enjos'^ment of our sur- 
roundings. 
A little below Wells River the current becomes slug- 
gish, and for miles the river winds and tAvists in and out 
among broad farming lands, and progress is necessarily 
slow. At one time after paddling vigorously for several 
miles we found ourselves within quarter of a mile of a 
spot we had left long before. This Avas not encouraging, 
but as we had already lost A'aluable time Ave Avorked 
hard, determined to make up for the delay. Our noon 
stoD Avas of short duration, alloAving us just time for a 
cold lunch and a plunge in the river. Then we Avere off 
again, and when darkness came on we had left many 
miles of river behind us. The canoe glided into a little 
cove, and a fire Avas soon snapping at the top of the 
bank. The savory odors from our frying pan and coffee 
pot soon warned us that supper Avas ready, and Ave Avere 
not long stowing it away. The repast over, Ave turned 
in for the night under a clump of "pine trees only a few 
rods away, and it again remained for our friends the 
crows to rouse us for the Avork of the next day. 
We Avere late in getting started. In spite of careful re- 
pairs the canoe had leaked badly during the previous 
day, and Ave determined to remedy the defect if possible 
before proceeding, and so while I roasted over the coals 
of our morning fire a duck Ave had secured the day be- 
fore my companion, armed with pitch and white lead, 
attacked the ship. When these important duties had 
been completed Ave were again ready to push on. 
White River Junction Avas the town Ave had planned to 
reach that night, but aa'c Avere doomed to disappointment. 
We had camped about two miles above Orford, N. H., 
and from this place to Orcut Falls, just above the junc- 
tion, the river is wide and deep, Avith practically no cur- 
rent. To make our AA'ork harder a strong head Avind 
sprung up, and the Avater became so rough that at times 
the Avaves almost submerged our low craft. At such 
times it was almost impossible to make any headway 
at all. As the daylight began to fade we were tired 
and out of sorts. Hanover Avas still a mile ahead of us, 
and between us and White RiA^er Junction lay about five 
miles of water and two carries, the one at Orcut Falls 
being the hardest of the entire trip. But complaining 
Avould do no good, and as the bank gave CAadence of 
good camping grounds for the night we landed. Our 
disappointment had not taken the edge off of our appe- 
tites at any rate, and the way our supper disappeared 
Avas a caution. W e had heaped our frying pan more than 
full Avith potatoes, bread, apples and "sand peeps"-^ 
"tip-up stew" Ave called the preparation— but Avhen we 
had satisfied our hunger it was difficult to find even a 
bone. No Avonder that Ave slept till late the next morn- 
ing. 
But we Avere already behind time and our breakfast 
was hurried. There Avas not a breath of wind stirring 
as Ave pushed off from the shore. _ The river was a huge 
mirror, and the reflections from Hanover to Orcut Falls 
Avere the most beautiful I have ever seen. The camera 
was brought into service, and snapped again and again. 
The results were in some cases gratifying, but none 
could begin to bring out the details or the coloring that 
gave to those reflections their Avonderful beauty. 
An hour's paddling brought us to the paper mills at 
Orcut Falls. As the canoe poked its way through the 
mass of chips, boards and logs that cover the river above 
the dam Ave began to realize that we had reached at 
last the most dreaded place of the entire trip. The 
carry here is a tough one. Up a steep, muddy bank, 
over a long stretch of rough ground, around the mills, 
and then at last down over a long, steep bank covered 
Avith a mass of broken rock and drift wood, until finally 
you reach a little cove, in which the canoe can once 
more ride safely on the water. Two hours Avere con- 
sumed here before Ave were once more on our Avay to 
the junction. 
About half a mile below the falls is what is "known to 
the logmen as the LoAver Pitch, and here again Ave had 
to make a short carry. The riA^er sweeps with great 
force through a narrow gap, and boils along for several 
rods in big choppy swells. But the carry is an easy one, 
and soon after 12 o'clock Ave paddled under the rail- 
road bridge at White River "Junction. Here we ex- 
pected to find some mail Avaiting for us, and as it was 
already late Ave decided to purchase food for our din- 
ner that Avould require no cooking. Leaving my com- 
panion in the canoe, I climbed the steep bank and 
made my way along the railroad tracks to the town. 
It Avas Fair Day, and the way the crowds stared at me 
was decidedly embarrassing. Evidently they took me 
for one of the freaks that form such an attractive element 
at the side shoAVS of a typical county fair. My appear- 
ance Avould certainly have justified such _ a conclusion. 
My boots had assumed a color strangely like that of the 
river bottom, and were full of cracks; my stockings 
looked as though they had served as targets for our rifle 
and shotgun practice; my short trousers were adorned 
Avith everything from butter to coffee, while rents and 
tears Avere visible everyAA'here, some of the Avorst partly 
draAvn together Avith the aid of pins and string, but most 
of them just as the bushes had left them. The sleeves 
of-.mj dark blue flannel shirt had shru»k ixom continue^ 
