April 30, 1898.] 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
343 
in. Such a thunderstorm — rain coming down in buckets- 
ful. Hoping it would clear and knowing of good trout 
pools at the outlet of Eagle Lake we plied pole and 
paddle to reach that lake before evening had set in. 
We accotliplished this, but the thunderstorm continued, 
and in vain we cast our brightest flies — May flies; wings 
painted red, green or blue would not fetch the trout, so 
we decided with no angelic temper to spread our own 
wings as angels, now seriously despoiled by rain, and fly 
from this spot. In carrying out this resolve we neither 
left behind the steady downpour of rain nor our much 
ruffled temper. Dowm stream — a now swollen stream — 
we dashed at no ordinary speed, making for a settler's 
house fifty miles from nowhere at the forks. Nothing 
so successful as success; we reached it as dark was set- 
ting in. There was, however, sufficient light to discover 
the dirt and. discomfort in this hut, iSft.xiSft., and the 
presence of ten or twelve brats of boys and girls of ages 
ranging from one to ten years. You could not take a 
step to the front without tumbling over a boy or girl. 
We beat a hasty retreat, and with much difficulty, amid 
the long-contintied thunder shower, cooked an evening 
2» 
AN IDEAL TROUT POOL. 
meal. With the morning dawn, the long-wished-for 
dawn, there was a clear sky, all evil thoughts had fled 
to the winds, even the dozen boys and girls, who came 
to cheer us as we glided down the rapids, or to fling- 
one last stone at us, seemed comparatively clean. Down 
the Toledi stream we went, through lake and on 
river; now coming across a flock of flappers; now 
stopping off to fish; now taking a snap shot at an 
ideal trout pool — or last, not least, to cook the inevi- 
table midday meal. It was toward evening ere we 
reached Lake Temiscouata, and we were once more on 
the outskirts of civilization. Here and there a settler's 
hut could be seen, and there were evident signs of that 
spoiler of the picturesque the lumberman's axe. Noth- 
ing, however, even the appearance of the railway train 
from Riviere du Loup, or the advent of a bike on the 
road on the western shore of the lake, could quite mar 
the scenery of this grand lake, with hill and dale, forest 
and stream, as background for its blue waters. Happily 
in this country we have not yet reached that stage of over- 
civilization spoken of in Merrie England, where at a 
bend of a trout stream (the Itchin) the angler sees on 
a board the advertisement in big letters: 
IF YOU CAN'T CATCH 'EM WITH QUILLS 
TRY 'S PILLS. 
We camped that night on the lake shore opposite the 
village of Notre Dame du Lac. 
We made an early start next morning with the view 
to reach Edmunston (thirty miles), the starting point 
of our trip, before sunset. At St. Rose, the outlet of the 
lake, we were surprised at the large size of the trout 
taken in the Madawaska River, and from that until we 
reached Edmunston we were kept busy with rod and 
landing net. Here at Edmunston endeth, not our first 
lesson in fishing, but a trip to which in winter evenings 
or on summer days one can "hark back" to as among 
the most enjoyable of autumn holidays. Micmac. 
Fredericton, March, 1898. 
Penobscot River. 
Air: Gypsy^s Warning. 
In thy youth among the mountains, 
Thou art but a wayward child; 
Ever singing, ever babbling, 
To the forest lone and wild. 
Grown to manhood thou art mighty, 
Fierce and strong, and full of life; 
Foaming, leaping, hoarsely shouting. 
In the wildest, maddest strife. 
But with age thy waters deepen. 
Rushing onward, bold and free; 
And thy life ends, ebbing, flowing, 
Battling with the restless sea. 
I was born beside thy waters, 
* Where they fall with deafening roar/ 
And I played in childhood's hour 
On thy legend-haunted shore. 
Oh, I love the lonely forests. 
Whence thy waters rise and flow; 
Where the moose and deer are hiding, 
Where the pines and larches grow. 
Some may sing of Western rivers, 
Sweeping broad o'er turbid sand, 
But give me thy reckless waters, 
"Old Penobscot," thou art grand! 
Hermit^ in Boston Sunday Globe. 
• Old Town Falls. 
Mr. Burnham's next paper will deal with Yukon out- 
fitting and personal experience on the trail. 
The Island of Marquez. 
An account of the first expedition to California, compiled from 
original sources for children of all ages. 
(yContinued from ^age .324). 
For five days after this there was little to note ex- 
cept the increasino' dryness of the country. On the sixth 
morning Juan sat gazing fixedly, while the pioneers sad- 
dled their horses and prepared to march. When all was 
ready he touched Estrada and pointed in a direction 
somewhat more westerly than they had thus far come. 
The party had left the immediate neighborhood of the 
river on account of the difficult nature of the traveling, 
but thus far they had been able to meet occasional water 
holes in the gullies, which were marked by a greener 
herbage or a different kind of bushes. Now toward the 
south the horizon seemed smoky, while further west the 
sky, though hazy, was clear. 
Juan pointed south, held the hollow of his hand to his 
mouth, went through the pantomine if sipping and then 
shook his head; no water there. Then turning westward 
and pointing to himself as the guide he showed that 
they would reach water in one sleep. Estrada, however, 
did not like to vary his course. He thought he was near 
the river and could follow it down. Accordingly they 
started south, Juan sulkily, the rest with the intention 
of either finding water by midday or then changing their 
course. 
The decision came near being a fatal one. Little by 
little the sky seemed to become brassy, and the hot air 
had in it a smell of sulphur. Plumes of smoke 
and vapor shot up now and then from the level desert 
ahead, but the sharp-eyed wanderers had caught a dis- 
tant sparkle as of a pond or lake and kept doggedly on. 
A light northerly breeze seemed to press back the vapor 
before them and help the advance. And now it was 
glaring noon, and just beyond the seeming pond some 
two or three miles away was seen a hillock about 50ft. 
high and other small mounds dotted the country all 
over the southern view. Now and again a feathery crown 
of vapor would rise from one or another hillock, as they 
looked, and drift ofif on the wind. No living thing had 
been seen that day save a lizard and one hawk that skimmed 
low over the ground in fruitless hunt. The water skins 
held store for one night, but they were now partly empty 
and must be filled at the lake to insure the supply. For 
an hour or more the band toiled on, the Indian clearly 
frightened and the priest becoming suspicious of Juan's 
possible connection with the underworld, and at length 
they came to the sparkling surface that had lured them 
on. It was indeed a pond, but what water! Beyond a 
dirty margin of whitish crust spread a black liquor coated 
in places with a yellow scum, glittering with rainbow 
colors as the ripples passed. Even as they stood horror- 
struck, the hillock beyond the pond sent up a spout of 
vapor, and dark mud could be seen trickling down its 
sides. For a moment the fitful breeze veered to the 
south. The hawk, which had towered for a view, caught 
a strong whiff' of the smoke and came to the ground flut- 
tering and gasping. Even the men were nearly stifled 
with the sulphur fumes, and waiting for no prayers or 
exorcisms to take effect they started west. The good 
father, muttering some remedial texts, picked up the 
strangling bird and carried him for an hour until he had 
recovered enough to soar alone, while the men, thank- 
ful for their escape, though still anxious for the future, 
asked themselves whether these hillocks were not the 
mountains of fire spoken of on the map. Meanwhile thejr 
thought more of the Indian's intelligence, and he, with 
recovered serenity, trotted over the sharp and burning 
stones, humming in dreary, monotonous recitative some 
tale of boasting or of magic wonders. As the band lay 
that night, waterless, but thankful, Estrada agreed with 
the others that they had seen the ink pot of Satan, and 
the place is named, as they called it, the "tintero," to this 
day. 
It was during the painful experiences of this day that 
Father Jaynie's courage seems to have faltered for the 
only time on the whole expedition, rather through a 
dread of the infernal powers than from any fear of bodily 
pain. Several times during the advance to the ink pot 
and its smoking hill he urged the party to turn home- 
ward, quoting the phrase of Vergil, "Easy is the descent 
to hell. Hard is the backward path." I admit that the 
text of Martinez must be a little amended to get this 
meaning, but it seems to be approximately proven. The 
blunt soldier gives the words of the priest, repeated 
several times with slight variations, as follows: "Faciles 
deseos haber ni sed. Revocar agrado que labor." These 
words are all Spanish, to be sure, but the sentences are 
neither idiomatic nor indeed grammatical. The simple 
chronicler seems to have thought this an elegant way 
of saying "It is easy to wish not to be thirsty. What 
(bootless) toil it is to take away contentment." Read 
the line, however, as it is pronounced and you have very 
nearly "Facilis descensus Averni, sed revocare graduni 
hie labor" — a sentence which is not indeed in the Ver- 
gilian order, but rep'-esents the passage as usually 
quoted. 
The next morning, when the dawn drew its first pale 
band in the east, the Spaniards were on foot, and waiting 
for no breakfast started at once, taking advantage of the 
brisk winter air for a rapid march. The Indian, with 
much willingness and evidently knowing the country well, 
took a rapid pace toward some low barren hills looming 
like a black ribband in the southwest. By 7 o'clock in 
the morning, when the edge of the sun was just peeping 
above the desert, they drew near a rocky ravine with 
a few shrubs in it, when Juan crouched down and pointed 
eagerly. Bejar was the first to see something moving 
among the shadows where the Indian pointed, and soon 
all could distinguish six animals looking very large in 
the early light. For a moment the Spaniards thought 
that they had come to a country of shepherds, for the 
animals looked like common sheep when some distance 
away. But Eejar drew near to the flock, which stood 
gazing curiously, and managed to kill one of the females 
with his match-lock, though he missed the ram with 
great horns that he aimed at. Martinez calls the game a 
goat, because apparently of the curving horns carried by 
the female, and says that they had no wool. Clearly, 
however, the creatures were mountain sheep, come iox 
their morning draught to the desert spring, which the 
travelers soon approached. 
Here, with much eagerness, all drank, though the 
water was still somewhat bitter, and then they cut up the 
wild sheep and cooked part of it for breakfast, while 
Father Jayme with fervent thankfulness intoned "De 
profundis clamavi." 
And now, after two days' rest at thiis spring, Estrada 
wished greatly to bend his course gradually to the east- 
ward, so as to reach the sea on its western side and be 
able to guide his stejjs with better knowledge. He 
talked niucli to the Indian boy by signs, for by this time 
the explorers had learned to understand this method 
of mute speech pretty well, and to be astonished also 
at the identity of gestures used to explain the same thing 
in different tribes — so that many simple ideas could be 
exchanged by people who understood no word of each 
other's language. 
Juan would not hear of any change of course as yet, but 
he let his captors (or rather now his companions) know 
that in four or five sleeps they would reach a region of 
plenty, which he called Cocopah. So Estrada and his 
friends decided to let Juan, who had already saved them 
from perishing on the desert, lead them out of this 
dangerous place. 
In two days of a somewhat toilsome journey the ranges 
of hills which ridged the level desert began to show signs 
of vegetation. Cactus, mescal, and various thorny plants 
familiar already to the explorers in Mexico, began to be 
scattered more and more thickly over the stony surface; 
but there was still no sign of human life. The boy Juan, 
however, jogged stolidly on, as if now sure of his destina- 
tion, and on the evening of the fifth day the party made 
camp by a small spring near which were seen traces of 
fire and a wretched shelter of brushwood. Juan now 
repeated his word Cocopah with much satisfaction, and 
made signs to indicate that there was always plenty 
to eat here, though appearances of the vicinity were not 
promising. Nor was the welcome of the natives warmer 
here than elsewhere. Bejar, who had started to look 
for the horses next morning, was grazed by an arrow 
from a hidden foe. As he was not armed at the time he 
came hastily back to camp and reported his adventure. 
Toward the end of this day's march, which was otherwise 
undisturbed, another brushwood hut was seen at some 
distance in a ravine, and with the boy Juan in the lead 
the party approached and discovered six male Indians 
(for the squaws, though doubtless present, do not seem 
to be counted here), who turned out to be Cccopahs, 
members of the clan which Juan was seeking. The 
savages were at first much startled, but after exchanging 
some discourse, which sounded like grunting, with the 
boy, they resumed their composure. It seemed from 
Juan's imperfect account, for he now pieced out his 
gestures with a few Spanish words, that food was not so 
plenty here as he had fancied. The rains, which had fal- 
len to the eastward of the gulf, had not favored the west- 
ern shore, and for over two years the always arid country 
had suffered from a complete drought. The mescal plants 
which formed the Indians' chief sustenance, had failed to 
mature in: sufficient numbers to support them, and they 
had eked out a living with mussels from the beach. They 
were even now planning another trip gulfward, and Es- 
trada, hearing this, decided to stay witli- this band at 
least for that trip. 
Nevertheless, though there was little preparation to 
be made, several days were passed in this spot and in 
similar -camps in the neighborhood before setting out 
for the sea, and two more Cocopahs had by that time 
joined the party. The provisions of the Spaniards were 
getting low, and Bejar and Martinez got two of the In- 
dians to go with them after deer. A few deer were seen, 
most of which were very shy, and Bejar, who was a poor 
marksman and used his match-lock rather hastily,' missed 
several shots before he finally got a deer. The guns were 
indeed heavy pieces, old enough to have seen service 
at Pavia, and not easy to handle, so that misses were 
very common. The report of the gun was at first terrify- 
ing to the guides, but they afterward looked on the firing 
rather as a magic ceremony, which had to be repeated a 
number of times before the charm would work. 
The deer was sorely needed for food, though on this 
day the natives by careful search had succeeded in get- 
ting a few mescal plants, which were said to be the last 
that were fit to eat. These were roasted in a hole in 
which a fire was made, and stones heated, the entire mass 
being covered up with sand when the flames died down 
and left until morning. Martinez said that he and his 
friends tried this dish, which tasted almost as sweet as 
sugar cane, but was so filled with sand by the method 
of cooking that they feared for their teeth, and would 
not eat it again. They did, however, find among the 
broken mussel shells which lay around the old roasting 
holes a few small pearls, discolored by heat, and were 
straightv/ay very eager to start at once for the shore. 
Estrada, like many a recent prospector, may well have 
had enticing dreams. He may have fancied that he was 
now in the very Golconda, the mother land of precious 
jewels. Did not the viceroy say that the Indies of 
Portugal touched this country on the northwest? Why 
should not an enterprising leader win provinces for Spain 
and honors for his own hand? Perhaps he saw himself 
gradually mounting the ladder of nobility: Count Adel- 
antado, viceroy, grandee of Spain! And Father Jayme 
shared the general enthusiasm. He no doubt dreamed of 
new regions subject to the cross like that City of Goa 
in the Orient to which Saint Francis Xavier was sail- 
ing this very year. The good man may even have seen 
in his vision a lofty cathedral raised to cover the bones 
of a blessed martyr canonized as Saint Jayme by a grate- 
ful church. 
But Juan did not take much interest either in the 
pearls or in the journey. He communicated to Martinez 
and the priest the fact that the oldest of the Cocopahs 
had a wizard's powers and had said that a man must 
be sacrificed to the water spirit to bring rain, that their 
mescal thickets might flourish again. In some way Juan 
had come to think that he was looked upon by his tribes- 
men as the destined victim, and by reason of this belief 
he kept close to the Spaniards most of the time. 
The party started betimes on their march for the coast, 
distant some four days' travel. The Spaniards were now 
»n afnot. Onft hnr.qe had died from the effect of an ar- 
