4 
TENERIFFE. 33 
same appearance as that of Fiinchal ; but the steep and 
rugged scenery, with which it is immediately surrounded, has 
a barren and a forbidding aspect : the rocky surface being of 
an uniform sombre hue, unenhvened by the least verdure, 
and varied only by its rude inequalities, and a few windmills 
perched on the heights behind the town. I'he summit of the 
peak, but just visible above the highest ridge, conveys from 
this point of view a very inadecpiate idea of its stupendous 
height. 
On approaching the shore, the beauties of the town are 
gradually unfolded. The upper surface of the mole, built of 
gi'anitic lava, forms a broad gravelled walk Avhich, inclining 
to the right, leads to a beautiful Passeadero or mall, for the 
use of the public, well shaded by several rows of trees ; and 
to the left, it branches towards a spacious square, in the 
centre of which is an obelisk supporting a statue of San Ber- 
nardo of no mean execution. The streets are mostly laid out 
in straight lines, are wide, airy, and clean ; and the houses 
in general have a neat appearance, being white-washed witli 
lime, though this article is not by any means cheap or plenti- 
ful, being made of shells, as there is not any lime-stone on 
the island. The substitution of wooden lattices in the M'in- 
dows for glass is, however, a very considerable drawback on 
the lively appearance of the town. In Funchal there were 
taverns, and wine-houses, and shops ; and a degree of bustle 
prevailed in the streets sufficient to indicate its being a place 
of some trade and resort : but here, the houses were ahv^ays 
shut up and, except in the mornings and evenings, scarcely a 
creature was to be seen but the porters and the fishermen al^out 
F 
