« 
50 TENERIFFE. 
ser\^ed communication of sentiments, even among the nearest 
friends. The hfe, indeed, which a Spanish colonist leads is 
nearly as secluded as that of a Turk. He seldom associates 
with his neighbours except at vespers, at matins, or at high 
mass. The greater part of the day is consumed in idleness at 
home. He reads little beyond his bible, his missal, and per- 
haps the miracles of our Lad}'^ of Candelaria, the protectress 
of the island, whose statue is placed in a chapel about ten 
miles to the south^vard of Santa Cruz, said to be ornamented 
with a profusion of gold, silver, and precious stones. It is 
built over a cavern by the sea-shore, in which her Ladyship 
had placed herself to direct the Spaniards into the harbour 
with a lighted candle in her hand. To the help of this pious 
fraud they were indebted for their success in converting the 
simple natives to Christianity. 
We inquired for books, but could find nothing in the shape 
of one for sale either in Santa Cruz, Laguna, or the two 
Oratavas. We were told, indeed, that not a book was suf- 
fered to be landed until it had been inspected by the proper 
officer of the Inquisition. Yet with every precaution taken 
by these pure and holy men, and under all the rigours of ec- 
clesiastical jurisdiction, the morals of the people v/ere found 
to be extremely corrupt, and instances of unhallowed connec- 
tions between the sexes so numerous, that it became neces- 
sary to pass a law, obliging ever}^ joung couple to marry 
who could be proved at any time to have been alone to- 
oether — a law which, it was shrewdly suspected, was a con- 
ft 
trivance of the father confessors, with a view to answer their 
private accommodation. It is a common opinion among the 
