NEW YORK (B). 
MEDIUM TO LATE. A fancy berry to fancy trade. 
Requires strong, rich land and tlien it is simply grand. 
It is a premium taker and will sell at highest figure. Ber- 
ries all big, bright red fellows, especially fine for serv- 
ing with stems. Pedigree, four years. 
WILLIAM BELT (B). 
MEDIUM TO L.'\TE. A great big fellow and as rich 
and beautiful as a berry grows and exceedingly produc- 
tive. If you will take the trouble to spray it, you 
will be delighted. Its foliage does not rust except with 
frequent rains and scalding sunshine. In many locali- 
ties it is the leading berry. Hedge or very narrow row 
for best results. Eight year pedigree. 
dug and packed in pure sphagnum moss and 
are sent to every part of the continent and, 
if not unduly exposed in setting them, you 
should not lose one plant per thousand. We 
assume you have opened the package and 
heeled them in as near as possible where they 
are to be set and that the ground has been 
marked oflf according to the plan you adopt 
for growing them. 
The whole thing lies in getting the roots 
into the ground straight and separated so the 
fine, moist soil can be firmly pressed around 
each one with the crown or body of the plant 
as much above ground as possible while all 
the roots are under the soil. The general 
tendency is to set the plants too deep. The 
crown must not be covered as this would re- 
tard the starting of new leaves. It makes but 
little difference what tools you use so long as 
this is accomplished. For several years I have 
been furnishing a cone maker. It is the ideal 
way to set large plants, but requires the ground 
to be fitted exactly right and some skill in 
operating it. We have found it did not prove 
popular with many and so have discontinued 
its manufacture. 
The Dibble. 
One of the best things is a dibble which any 
blacksmith can make. Take a flat piece of 
steel three and one-half inches wide, one-eighth 
of an inch thick and ten inches long. Make it 
pointed and attach a handle as seen in the en- 
graving. Plunge it into the soil with the right 
hand, press over so as to make the opening, 
slip the plant in, jerking it a little so the roots 
will straighten out and withdraw the dibble and 
press it down two inches from the opening and 
force the soil back hard against the plant. 
When the row is finished go back and step 
on each side of the plant. The spade is quite 
generally used and is all right, if properly han- 
dled. Plunge it in, press over, then bring it 
back so as to move the lower end of the blade 
about two inches, force down an inch and then 
from you until the dry earth, if any, goes to 
the bottom; pass along rapidly. 
The man with the basket of plants by his 
side following grasps the plant by the crown 
with the left hand and deftly flirts it so as to 
straighten the roots, drag it into the opening 
and with the right hand separates the roots so 
they are fan shape, quickly makes a mound of 
earth on right side and passes along. When 
the row is fini.shed he rests himself by going 
back and stepping on the mound of earth left 
at the side of the plants which sinks into the 
hole made by the spade and leaves the ground 
level. 
Especially note the all importance of tramp- 
ing the ground around the plants very hard, if 
the ground is very dry so the water will draw 
up from the subsoil by capillarity. More plants 
are lost in a dry time by setting in loose earth 
than any other cause. If the earth is quite 
wet it packs easy and so you should step light- 
ly. We use pans about fifteen inches long and 
five inches deep with a long handle riveted in 
the center for carrying plants. The plants arc 
covered by a cloth so they are never exposed. 
Formerly we had a man drop, but we find men 
will persist in dropping several plants ahead, 
leaving them exposed to hot sun and wind so 
roots dry out. This is very bad and liable to 
injure roots so they will not start off vigorous- 
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