8 
GREAT CROPS OF STRAWBERRIES AND HOW TO GROW THEM 
Copyright 1911 by R. M. Kellogg Co., Three Rivers. Mich. 
STAPLES AND COLUMBIA-TWO ADDITIONS TO OUR LIST 
N this dish are shown berries as produced by the Kellogg strain of Staples and Columbia varieties, which we offer for the 
first time Staples is an old and tried variety and succeeds almost everywhere, while Columbia is of recent orierination and is 
succeeding almost everywhere it has been tested. We are sure that Staples will please everyone who wishes to grow h.g crops 
of highly colored berries, and those who have not tested Columbia we urge to do so. as we know they will be greatly pleased. 
I 
row allow each plant to make four runners, lay- 
ering the runners so as to form a continuous row 
of young plants on each side of the original row. 
When the double-hedge row is completely formed 
you will have three continuous lines of plants. 
For the narrow-matted row allow enough runners 
to form to make the row of plants about fifteen 
or eighteen inches wide, but do not allow the 
plants to set too thickly. They can be thinned 
out while hoeing. After the rows are formed ac- 
cording to your liking, the balance of the runners 
should be cut off as fast as they are sent out. 
When your plants are a year old and begin 
fruiting, they will continue to send out many run- 
ners. It is not necessary to remove these. We 
have experimented by cutting runners off from 
the fruiting plants, but sufficient difference in the 
quantity or quality of the berries was not ob- 
served to justify the work. 
Removing the Blossoms 
IN a short time after the plants have been set 
they will begin to blossom. These blossoms 
should be removed by pinching or cutting them 
off. The plants should not be allowed to fruit the 
first season they are set. Plants which are set in 
the spring of 1912 will produce their first crop ot 
berries in the spring of 1913. 
Mulching 
IN the early winter cover the plants with some 
kind of straw or marsh hay. This covering 
should be put on very lightly, just enough to shade 
the plants. About three l&rge two-horse loads is 
sufficient for one acre. Leave the mulch undis- 
turbed until the plants begin to grow the follow- 
ing spring. Then, with a fork or rake, part the 
mulching directly over the row. In making this 
opening in the mulching see that it is wide enough 
to allow the plants to grow without any obstruc- 
tion. The mulching should remain between the 
rows to hold moisture and to keep the berries 
clean at fruiting time. 
Spraying the Plants 
FORTUNATELY, the strawberry has but few 
enemies. However, there are some insects 
which work upon the plants. Therefore, we give 
you these suggestions in spraying so that you 
may know what to do in case insects attack your 
plants. For any insects which eat holes in the 
leaves of the plants spray with arsenate of lead, 
using three pounds of the lead to fifty gallons of 
water. Put the lead into a three-gallon bucket; 
pour over it enough water merely to moisten. 
Then with a mallet similar to a potato masher 
pulverize it thoroughly, adding water as you pul- 
verize, until you nave made it into a creamy 
paste. Add this to fifty gallons of water and mix 
thoroughly. Generally one spraying will destroy- 
any leaf-chewing insect. 
For any fungous trouble, such as leaf-blight or 
mildew, use lime-sulphur solution in the propor- 
tion of two gallons of solution to fifty gallons of 
water. This material may be purchased from 
any manufacturer of spraying materials. How- 
ever, it is unnecessary to spray at all unless some 
insects are working upon your plants or some 
fungus is present upon the foliage. We may say 
here that the reason we spray our plants contin- 
Add'ress all communications and make all remittances payable to R. M. KELLOGG CO.. Three Rivers, Mich. 
