GREAT CROPS OF STRAWBERRIES AND HOW TO GROW THEM 
Copyright 1915 by R. M. Kellogg Co.. Three Rivers. Mich. 
JOCUNDA, A POPULAR FAVORITE IN THE WEST 
JOCUNDA steadily grows in favor in the Inter Mountain states where for many years it has been the leading variety in higher 
altitudes. However, its popularity is not limited to that section, as it is grown with very large success, not only throughout 
the irrigated districts of the West, but it also is steadily advancing in popularity over the entire northern half of the United 
States as well as in many sections of the Northwest provinces of Canada. Jocunda is of the perfect strawberry form and as 
we have indicated above is very hardy. It has a leaf tissue so tough as to make it a strong resister of insect pests and fungous 
diseases. It is apowerf ul bisexual and an excellent mate for mid-season pistillates. Grown at Three Rivers and Twin Falls farms 
lants. Any tool that will make a furrow four or 
ve inches deep and about six inches wide at the 
top will serve this purpose. 
The hoe should be continuously used throughout 
the growing season for the purpose of breaking 
up the surface of the soil which the cultivator 
has failed to reach. This will keep the soil loose 
and will prevent weed growth. Hoeing brings 
the moisture close up to the plants and prevents 
evaporation of moisture. Do not cut the soil 
deeply with the hoe; simply loosen the surface, 
going deeper as you work away from the plant. 
The importance of cultivating the fruiting bed 
may not be over-estimated, and no matter how 
well you have mulched the strawberries in the 
fall we advise cultivating in the spring. Indeed, 
we believe in frequent cultivations in the spring 
and early summer, confident that it tends to pro- 
duce not only larger crops, but a much higher 
quality of fruit. If your plants have been proper- 
ly mulched, draw the mulching away from the 
center and cultivate there. If there be any grass 
or weeds near the plants, use the hoe or pull them 
by hand. Spring cultivation in the fruiting bed 
will perform the same functions as those em- 
ployed when cultivating new set-plants. That 
is, it will make conditions favorable to bacteria, 
aid in retaining moisture, eliminate weeds and 
will do much to aid in the perfecting of a full crop 
of fine berries. And the fruit will be much larger 
and of a better color than would be possible with- 
out such cultivation. 
To Prevent Pollen Secretion 
CHORTLY after strawberry plants are set they 
*^ will begin to send out fruit stems on which will 
develop fruit buds. These fruit stems should be 
removed before the buds fully open. If the plants 
are allowed to go into blossom, they will be weak- 
ened by pollen secretion, and if the newly set 
plants are allowed to bear fruit the same spring 
they are set out, it will greatly injure them and 
may result in failure. Newly set plants will pro- 
duce fruit the same season they are set if allowed 
to do so, but they are not in physical condition to 
withstand the strain. Therefore all fruit-stems 
of the so-called standard varieties should be 
removed during the first season. This will not 
be a difficult task, but it is a very important one 
if you would secure large results from your straw- 
berry plants. Simply pinch off the fruiting stems 
with the thumb nail or cut them off with shears 
or a knife. These fruit stems grow higher than 
the foliage, which renders it an easy matter even 
for an amateur to remove. We also advise the 
removal of the first runner plants and suggest 
that they be cut off up to the last of June. This 
will afford the plants an opportunity to develop 
a strong and vigorous growth at which time they 
will be in fine physical condition to make strong 
and fruitful runner plants entirely without injury 
to the mother plant. 
The Training of Runners 
pLANTS that are grown in hills should have all 
runners cut off as fast as they appear and no 
runners whatever should be permitted to mature. 
But when grown by the single-hedge or triple- 
hedge the runners should be trained or set so as 
to make the desired row. This work should be 
done when hoeing. Simply place the runner cord 
in the desired position and with the hoe place soil 
over the runner cord just back of the node, or 
bud, which forms the young plant. If you decide 
in favor of the single-hedge row, allow two run- 
ner plants to mature on each mother plant and 
layer them directly in line with the mother plant. 
If you prefer the triple-hedge row, you will allow 
six runners to form and will layer four of these 
runners X fashion with the mother, or original 
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