R. M. KELLOGG'S GREAT CROPS 
THE GOOSEBERRY 
Is now attracting much atttenlion and prov- 
ing one of the most profitable berries grown. 
The demand is increasing very much faster 
than the supply. Their general cultivation 
is similar to that of currants, and insects are 
disposed of in the same way. 
For picking use a pair of thick byckskin 
gloves and strip the fruit off by handfulls 
and run through a fanning mill, or pour 
them on a blanket so that the wind will 
blow the leaves out. It's quick work. Keep 
the bush pruned rather closely, and top of 
bush open. They do better with heavy 
mulch. 
Tlie Downiiif>" is 
the most popular ber- 
ry for market, large, 
even, fine grained, and 
makes a fine, large 
bush. I year loc each; 
S1.25 per dozen; S6per 
100; 2 year, 15c each; 
$1.50 per dozen; S8 per 
100. 
Houfrlitoii is enor- 
mously productive and 
very free from mil- 
dew. Berries are not 
quite so large as Downing, but in some mar- 
kets sell better, i year, loc each; 75c per 
dozen; 34.50 100; 2 year, 15c each; 81-25 per 
dozen; $6 per 100. 
Smith's Improved is a large pale yel- 
low berry of great beauty and surprisingly 
productive. It is making many friends 
everywhere, i year, 15c each; Si -50 per 
dozen; S8 per 100; two years, 20c each; 
$2 per dozen; S9 per 100. 
The Downing. 
THE VINEYARD. 
Of all the fruit that grows there is none 
more beautiful and tempting than the grape, 
with its great rich clusters hidden away in 
the cool shade of its dense foliage. They 
are so easy to grow and afford so much 
pleasure for the labor expended that a 
luisiness man, mechanic or farmer 
should deny his family or the hired help an 
abundance of this luscious fruit comes close 
to the borders of cruelty. A few vines and 
a very little care and the enjoyment is 
yours. 
The great point is to have cuttings 
taken from strong and vigorous vines that 
have always been kept properly pruned. 
We have already stated that cuttings taken 
from exhausted vines will not fruit as heav- 
ily as those from canes which have never 
been allowed to overbear. 
The Soil should be rather dry and 
neither the stiffest clay nor lightest sand. 
Good corn and potato land will do. It de- 
lights in warm sunshine for foliage and 
shade for its fruit. 
Fertilizing: should consist largely of 
ground bone and wood ashes, or very 
thoroughly rotted stable manure which 
must not be brought in direct contact with 
the roots. Never use rank unfermented 
manure under any circumstances. If the 
ground is in fair fertility about three or 
four hundred pounds of bone and from 
twenty to fifty bushels of unleached wood 
ashes per acre will do the business. They 
should be cultivated in and thoroughly in- 
corporated with the soil. I give a dressing 
of ashes every year. I am satisfied it gives 
richer flavor to fruit and ripens the wood 
much better. 
Preparing- the Oroiind. The ground 
should be plowed as deep and made as fine 
and mellow as possible. Some people dig 
holes two feet deep and four or five feet 
across and fill them up with rich top soil to 
within a few inches of the top of the ground 
and then set the vine and afterwards fill 
full. If the soil is porous or quite sandy so 
the water will settle away quickly, this is 
precisely the right thing to do. But if you 
have a firm soil, a stiff clay, it is precisely 
the thing to do; the water will soak 
into the soft earth and hold it there like a 
tub and destroy the vigor of the vine. In the 
latter case break up the ground as deeply 
as possible and set the vine not too deep. 
Never put any manure in the hill when 
setting. Manure seems to be rank poison 
to a young grape root. More vines die from 
this than any other cause. Don't do it. 
Never mulch a grape vine. The soil should 
be warm where the roots are feeding. 
The vines may grow as they please the 
first year, but the second year must be 
staked or trellised and pruned to three buds; 
after they start rub off all but the strongest 
one. 
Pruning. There are a great many ways 
of doing this. Bear in mind that fruit grows 
on the present year's growth from canes of 
last year's growth. Very rarely a fruiting 
bud is found on an old cane. 
The Trellis. We prefer what is known 
as the Kniffin system. Two wires are 
used; the lower one not less than three and 
one-half feet from the ground and the second 
fully two feet aBove the first. The vine is 
allowed four arms, each extending two to 
four feet out on each wire. Then prune 
each lateral back to from one to three buds, 
leaving in all not more than from twenty to 
forty buds, according to the vigor of the 
vine, and then the grapes should be thinned 
soon after the fruit sets so as not to leave 
more than thirty to forty clusters. The 
clusters will be larger and better flavor 
and ripen much earlier. A strong, healthy 
vine will always set more fruit than it can 
ripen and the following year will be weaker^ 
9 
