10 
R. M. KELLOGG S CiREAT CROPS ON 
called slovenly so long as my whole Mrm is tree 
from such pests and my neighbors stand over 
their rusty, insect-eaten, half-dead plants so 
eagerly inquiring: " How does he do it ?" He 
does it by burning and getting a march on 
them in advance. My farm has never lost a 
crop, which ought to furnish some evidence 
that it pays. The most destructive enemy we 
have to contend with is the 
White Grub. 
It is the larvie of the May beetle. There is no 
locality in this country where they do not 
exist. They are from one and a half to two 
inches long and up to % of an inch in diameter, 
with a brownish head. Every boy who carries 
a fish rod knows them. The eggs are laid by a 
large brownish beetle during the early summer 
and are from three to four years m getting 
their full growth. The eggs are very rarely or 
never laid in freshly plowed land, but are 
found in heavy clover sod, old pastxires and old 
thickly-matted strawberry beds. They feed on 
the roots of different kinds of grasses, and seem 
especially partial to strawberries. They take 
their place about one inch under the plant and 
cut off the roots. If it happens to be a wet 
season the roots will sometimes send out new 
ones as fast as he can eat them off, but if it is 
dry you will find the plants "wilting without a 
cause." He can move from one plant to 
another fast enough for all practical purposes 
and if there are plenty of them the plantation is 
soon destroyed. The only safety is to plant on 
land that has been cultivated two or three 
years. It is not safe to re-set a strawberry bed 
allowed to stand three or four years without 
rotating with other crops. A careful examina- 
tion should at least be made. 
The agricultural department at Washingttm 
is meeting with wonderful success in discover- 
ing and introducing other insects that feed on 
the eggs and larv* of destructive insects and 
we shall soon learn how to fight them success- 
fully as well as to meet and check all growths 
of fungi as they appear. 
The present large increase of insects is not 
likely to continue. We have the satisfaction 
of knowing that 
" Every loiiBe liiis leaser lice 
To trouble and to bite 'em. 
And BO on ad infinitum.*'' 
I believe there is a better future for fruit- 
growers in this respect. 
Manure. 
The professional fruit grower always looks 
ahead and applies the coarse manure at least 
two years before the plants are to be set. 
Plowing under coarse, unrotted manure and 
putting the roots in this straw destroys many 
plants. A drouth following is sure to be fatal 
to them. If the ground is not rich enough 
(and it should be very rich) I prefer to set the 
plants first and apply the manure afterwards 
between the rows, cultivating it in so as to 
thoroughly incorporate it with the soil, but 
don't let it come too near the roots. 
Wood Ashes 
are the great fertilizer for all fruits. They 
give higher color, richer flavor, and firmer 
texture. They should be unleaohed and sown 
broadcast from twenty to a hundred bushels 
per acre. The latter on light sand and less on 
heavier soils. The potash and phosphoric acid 
become incorporated as a part of the soil and 
do not leach out as many suppose, but remain 
for years or until taken up by plants. They 
have a wonderful power in conserving moist- 
ure during a dry time, and a fine mechanical 
effect in mellowing the soil. You will bear in 
mind they are a very strong alkali, and must 
not be put on the crowns or roots. We engage 
from the wood furnaces in town, and buy all we 
can get. They are the cheapest fertilizer to 
be had. 
Hen Manure 
is very valuable, but as generally applied does 
more harm than good. The only safe way is 
to compost it, and handle it over and mix it 
thoroughly with a large quantity of soil. 
Ground bone and phosphate are good but are 
are strong, and should be applied in small 
quantities at a time, but often. I get all the 
manure free my teams can draw from town, so 
chemical manures do dot find a very large sale 
here. I do not think much of plowing manure 
down deep and leaving it there. Better use it 
as a top dressing. 
Soil. 
I do not care to spend much time on soil. 
The question is, is it good enough for a garden 
or to raise corn, wheat, etc. All the advantage 
accruing from drainage for these crops will 
help any small fruit crop. 
Location. 
A southern incline brings on the fruit earlier. 
