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TRAVELS IN THE 
my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me to exa- 
mine my waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called out, la ilia 
el allah Mahamet rasowl allahi,* and signified, in a threat- 
ening manner, that I must repeat those words. We reached 
at length the king's tent, where we found a great number of 
people, men and women, assembled. Ali was sitting upon a black 
leather cushion, clipping a few hairs from his upper lip ; a female 
attendant holding up a looking glass before him. He appeared to 
be an old man, of the Arab cast, with a long white beard ; and 
he had a sullen and indignant aspect. He surveyed me with atten- 
tion, and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic : being 
answered in the negative, he appeared much surprised, and 
continued silent. The surrounding attendants, and especially 
the ladies, were abundantly more inquisitive : they asked a 
thousand questions ; inspected every part of my apparel, search- 
ed my pockets, and obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat, and 
display the whiteness of my skin : they even counted my toes 
and fingers, as if they doubted whether I was in truth a human 
being. In a little time the priest announced evening prayers ; 
but before the people departed, the Moor who had acted as 
interpreter, informed me that Ali was about to present me 
with something to eat ; and looking round, I observed some 
boys bringing a wild hog,, which they tied to one of the tent 
strings, and Ali made signs to me to kill and dress it for supper. 
Though I was very hungry, I did not think it prudent to eat 
any part of an animal so much detested by the Moors, and 
therefore told him that I never eat such food. They then 
* See page 103. 
