l80 TRAVELS IN THE 
music to my ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak arriv- 
ed at some shallow muddy pools, so full of frogs, that it was dif- 
ficult to discern the water. The noise they made frightened my 
horse, and I was obliged to keep them quiet, by beating the 
water with a branch until he had drank. Having here quenched 
my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the morning being calm, I soon 
perceived the smoke of the watering-place which I had passed 
in the night ; and observed another pillar of smoke east-south- 
east, distant 12 or 14 miles. Towards this I directed my route, 
and reached the cultivated ground a little before eleven o'clock : 
where seeing a number of Negroes at work planting corn, I in- 
quired the name of the town ; and was informed that it was a 
Foulah village, belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now 
some doubts about entering it ; but my horse being very much 
fatigued, and the day growing hot, not to mention the pangs 
of hunger which began to assail me, I resolved to venture ; and 
accordingly rode up to the Dooty's house, where I was unfor- 
tunately denied admittance, and could not obtain even a hand- 
ful of corn, either for myself or horse. Turning from this in- 
hospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiving 
some low scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route 
towards them ; knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, 
hospitality does not always prefer the highest dwellings. At 
the door of one of these huts, an old motherly-looking woman 
sat, spinning cotton ; I made signs to her that I was hungry, and 
inquired if she had any victuals with her in the hut. She imme- 
diately laid down her distaff, and desired me, in Arabic, to come 
in. When I had seated myself upon the floor, she set before 
