26 
R. M. KELLOaO'S GREAT CROPS OP 
■temperature ol the air causes the buds to 
appropriate the stored food and they will 
make almost full foliage without calling- on 
the roots for supplies, hence we can cut 
away a part of the branches and surplus 
fruit buds, and this early growth will com- 
pensate for it and maintain the balance 
between the roots and branches. The leaves 
having- an abundance of lig-ht on all sides, 
assimilation is active and the roots being- 
able to concentrate their powers on the 
fewer buds a very rapid growth is secured 
early in the spring, so the late summer and 
fall months are used to mature the wood and 
buds for the coming winter. 
The removal of surplii.s buds while 
dormant prevents pollen exhaustion and 
thus enables the tree to impart a potency to 
pollen that secures full development of fruit, 
and large annual crops are thus grown. 
Summer Pruning-. The best growers 
are discarding summer pruning. Unless an 
undue stimulus to leaf growth is given by 
rich nitrogenous manure, the more foliage 
we can have the better results will be ob- 
tained. With these suggestions the engrav- 
ing will show how the work should be done. 
THE GOOSEBERRY 
Is now attracting much attention and prov- 
ing one of the most profitable berries grown. 
The demand is increasing very much faster 
than the supply. Their general cultivation 
is similar to that of currants, and insects 
are disposed of in the same way. 
For picking use a pair of thick buckskin 
gloves and strip the fruit off by handfuls 
and run through a fanning mill, or pour 
them on a blanket so that the wind will 
blow the leaves out. It's quick work. Keep 
the bush pruned rather closely, and top of 
bush open. They do better with heavy 
mulch. 
The Downing- is the 
most popular berry for 
market, large, even, fine 
grained, and makes a 
fine large bush. 1 year, 
10c each, $1.25 Jper doz. 
andS6.00perlOO. 2year, 
15c each, $1.50 per doz. 
and S8.00 per 100. 
Houghton is 'enor- 
mously productive and 
very free from mildew. 
Berries are not quite so 
large as Downing, but 
in some markets sell better. 1 year, 10c 
each, 75c per doz. and $4.50 per 100. 2 year, 
ISc each, $1.25 per doz. and S6.00 per 100. 
Sinith'.s Improved is a large pale yel- 
low berry of great beauty and surprisingly 
productive. It is making many friends 
everywhere. 1 year, 15c each, $1.50 per doz. 
and $8.00 per 100. 2 year, 20c each, $2.00 per 
doz. and $9.00 per 100. 
The Downing. 
THE VINEYARD. 
Of all the fruit that grows there is none 
more beautiful and tempting than the grape, 
with its great rich clusters hidden away in 
the cool shade of its dense foliage. They 
are so easy to grow and afford so much 
pleasure for the labor expended that a 
business man, meelumic or farmer 
who should deny his family or the hired help 
an abundance of this luscious fruit comes 
close to the borders of cruelty. A few vines, 
a very little care and the enjoyment is 
yours. 
The jrreat point is to have cuttings 
taken from strong- and vigorous vines that 
have always been kept properly pruned. 
We have already stated that cuttings taken 
from exhausted vines will not fruit as heav- 
ily as those from canes which have never 
been allowed to overbear. 
The soil should be rather dry and neither 
the stiffest clay nor lightest sand. Good 
corn and potato land will do. It delights in 
warm sunshine for foliage and shade for its 
fruit. 
Fertilizing should consist largely of 
ground bone and wood ashes, or very tlior- 
oughly rotted stable manure which musi jiot 
be brought in direct contact with the roots. 
Never use rank unfermented manure under 
any circumstances. If the ground is in fair 
fertility, about three or four hundred pounds 
of bone and from twenty to fifty bushels of 
unleached wood ashes per acre will do the 
business. They should be cultivated in and 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil. I 
give a dressing of ashes every year. I am 
satisfied it gives a richer flavor to fruit and 
ripens the wood much better. 
Preparing the ground. The ground 
should be plowed as deep and made as fine 
and mellow as possible. Some people dig 
holes two feet deep and four or five feet 
across and fill them up with rich top soil to 
within a few inches of the top of the ground 
and then set the vine and afterwards fill 
full. If the soil is porous or quite sandy so 
the water will settle away quickly, this is 
precisely the rig^/it thing to do. But if you 
have a firm soil, a stiff clay, it is precisely 
the wrong thing to do ; the water will soak 
into the soft earth and hold it there like a 
tub and destroy the vigor of the vine. In 
the. latter case break up the ground as deeply 
as possible and set the vine not too deep. 
Never put any manure in the hill when 
setting. Manure seems to be rank poison to 
a young grape root. More vines die from 
this than any other cause. DonH do it. 
Never mulch a grape vine. The soil should 
be warm where the roots are feeding. 
The vines may grow as they please the 
first year, but the second year must be 
staked or trellised and pruned to three buds; 
after they start rub off all but the strongest 
one. 
Pruning. There are a great many ways 
of doing this. Bear in mind that fruit 
grows on the present year's growth from 
canes of last year's growth. Very rarely a 
fruiting bud is found on an old cane. 
Tlie trellis. We prefer what is known 
as the Kniffin system. Two wires are used ; 
the lower one not less than three and one- 
half feet from the ground and the second 
fully two feet above the first. The vine is 
