M. KELLOaO'S GREAT CROPS OF 
28 
The Cherry is under the same culliva- 
tion, nearly as large as Fay, and is one of 
the most productive on the list. 10c each, 
75c per doz. and $5.00 per 100. 
01<l Kort Dutch still holds its own as 
reliable and productis-e. 
The AVhite I>iltoh resembles the red 
except in color, 10c each, 75c per doz. and 
$5,00 per 100. 
The "White Grape is much soufjht after 
on account of its mild and delicious flavor. 
The fruit is of good size and verj' beautiful. 
10c each, 75c per doz, and $5,00 per 100. 
THE GOOSEBEKKY 
Is now attracting- much attention and prov- 
ing one of the most profitable berries grown. 
The demand is increasing very much faster 
than the supply. Their general cultivation 
is similar to that of currants, and insects 
are disposed of in the same way. 
For picking, use a pair of thick buckskin 
gloves and .strip the fruit off by handfuls 
and run through a fanning mill, or pour 
them on a blanket so that the wind will 
blow the leaves out. It's quick work. Keep 
the bush pruned rather closely, and top of 
bush open. They do better with heavy 
mulch. 
The Dovviiiiif;' is the 
most popular berry for 
market, large, even, fine 
grained, and makes a 
line, large bush, 1 year, 
10c each, $1,25 per doz, 
and $6.00 per 100. 2 year, 
15c each, $1..S0 per dozen 
and $8.00 per 100. 
Hoiishtoil is enor- 
mously productive and 
very free from mildew. 
Berries are not quite so 
large as Downing, but The Downing, 
in some markets sell better. 1 year, 10c 
each, 75c per doz. and .S4.50 per 100. 2 year, 
15c each, 81,25 per doz. and $6.00 per 100. 
.Smith'.>< Improved is a large pale j-el- 
low berry of great beauty, and surprisingly 
productive. It is making many friends 
everywhere. 1 year, 15c each, 81.50 per doz. 
and $8.00 per 100. 2 year, 20c each, 82.00 per 
doz. and 89.00 per 100. 
THE VINEYAKD. 
Of all the fruit that grows there is none 
more beautiful and tempting than the grape, 
with its great rich clusters hidden away in 
the cool shade of its den.se foliage. They 
are so easy to grow and afford so much 
pleasure for the labor expended that a 
hiisiiie.ss mail, meehaiiie or farmer 
who should deny his family or the hired help 
an abundance of this luscious fruit comes 
close to the borders of cruelty. A few vines, 
a very little care and the enjoyment is 
yours. 
The fj-reat point is to have cuttings 
taken from strong and vigorous vines that 
have always been kept properly pruned. 
We have already stated that cuttings taken 
from exhausted vines will not fruit as heav- 
ily as those from canes which have never 
been allowed to overbear. 
The .soil should be rather dry and neither 
the stifl'est clay nor lightest sand. Good 
corn and potato land will do. It delights in 
warm sunshine for foliage and shade for its 
fruit. 
Fertilizillf;' should consist largely of 
ground bone and wood ashes, or vciy thor- 
oughly rotted stable manure which mitat not 
be brought in direct contact with the roots. 
Never use rank unfermented manure under 
any circumstances. If the ground is in fair 
fertility, about three or four hundred pounds 
of bone and from twenty to fift)' bushels of 
unleached wood ashes per acre will do the 
business. They should be cultivated in and 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil. I 
give a dressing of ashes every year. I am 
satisfied it gives a richer flavor to fruit and 
ripens the wood much better. 
Prepariii}{" the sro""*!- The ground 
should be plowed as deep and made as fine 
and mellow as possible. Some people dig 
holes two feet deep and four or five feet 
across and fill them up with rich top soil to 
within a few inches of the top of the ground 
and then .set the vine and afterwards fill 
full. If the soil is porous or quite sandy so 
the water will settle away quickly, this is 
preci-sely the rl!<lit thing to do. But if you 
have a firm soil, a stift' clay, it is precisely 
the -vroiig- thing to do; the water will soak 
into the soft earth and hold it there like a 
tub and destroy the vigor of the vine. In 
the latter case break up the ground as deep- 
ly as possible and set the vine not too deep. 
Never put any manure in the hill when 
setting. Manure seems to be rank poison to 
a )'oung grape root. More vines die from 
this than any other cause. Don't do it. 
Never mulch a grape vine. The .soil should 
be warm where the roots are feeding. 
The vines may grow as they please the 
first year, but the second year must be 
staked or trellised and pruned to three buds; 
after they start rub off all but the strongest 
one. 
Pruning'. There are a great many ways 
of doing this. Bear in mind that fruit 
grows on the present year's growth from 
canes of last year's growth. Very rarely a 
fruiting bud is found on an old cane. 
The trellis. We prefer what is known 
as the KniJ/iii system. Two wires are used; 
the lower one not less than three and one- 
half feet from the ground and the second 
fully two feet above the first. The vine is 
allowed four arms, each extending two to 
four feet out on each wire. Then prune 
each lateral back to from one to three buds, 
leaving in all not more than from twenty to 
forty buds, according to the vigor of the 
vine, and then the grapes should be thinned 
soon after the fruit sets so as not to leave 
more than thirty to forty clusters. The 
clusters will be larger, of better flavor and 
ripen much earlier. A strong, healthy vine 
will always set more fruit than it can ripen 
and the following year will be weaker, so 
that close pruning and thinning one year 
with another is the only way to secure con- 
