GREAT CROPS OF STRAWBERRIES AND HOW TO GROW THEM 
Copyright 1914, by B. M. Kellogg: Co., Three Ri-rers, Mich. 
GI.EN MABY, THE CNIVEIISALLY POPULAR , 
PERHAPS no better recommendation o( this extraordinary mid-season bisexual could be given than that 
contained in a letter received in June. 1!)14, (rom W. D. Gay, mayor ot the city of Essex. Iowa. Mayor 
r.ay wrote us as follows: "We set the Glen Mary plants very late in 1913, and the dry summer ot that year 
did its best to burn up these plants. But their long, massive roots struck deeply, and 'Mary' kept green 
all through the burning desert winds, and she thrived, made numerous young plants and large crowns last 
fall. Three times Glen Mary wa.s frozen stiff while in bloom — notwithstanding all ot these vicissitudes. 
Glen Mary looms up an easy winner — more berries, larger berries, finer berries as to color and shape, better 
sellers, bettor eaters, better canners and better shippers. My entire field hereafter will be composed of 
Glen Mary. I never supposed it was possible to grow such enormous fruit with such conditions as these 
plants have been subjected to. You ought to push Glen Mary harder." Mayor Gay's advice is excellent. 
leveled down with cultivator and a small 
amount of fine soil drawn over the plants 
which were left for fruiting. It has been our 
experience that the matted-row system always 
will give a better crop the second year than 
it did the first year, but in no case allow plants 
to fruit more than two years. When plants are 
allowed to remain in fruiting longer than two 
years they deteriorate and become less fruitful, 
but the most serious objection to allowing 
plants to fruit more than two years Is that it 
makes conditions favorable to all Insects which 
work upon strawberry plants. 
Mulching Strawberry Plants 
MULCHING the plants is one of the most 
important features to be considered, and 
we cannot lay too much emphasis on this 
point. In northerly latitudes where freezing 
and thawing begin early to alternate, as well 
as in those colder sections where freezing 
weather comes to stay for a while, mulch 
should be applied after the first hard freeze 
in the fall. Here we must protect the vines 
from the cold weather, so we cover them over, 
using about two and a half tons of good straw 
to the acre to go over the vines themselves 
(say one inch deep over the vines), and fill in 
heavily the spaces between the rows. In the 
South, where mulching Is done for two pur- 
poses only — to retain moisture in the soil and 
keep the fruit clean — mulching need not be 
done until shortly before the buds open. There 
the mulch should be placed along the rows 
close up to the plants, but do not cover them. 
During the winter in the North heavy rains 
and snows have soaked the mulching to such 
a degree that it rests upon the vines as a 
mat so heavy and so dense as to render It 
impossible for the plants to grow up through 
it without some help, and therefore, early in 
Page Thlrty-scvcn 
2 
