Natural Incubation. 
19 
to turn comfortably, thus minimising the risk of breakages. Should, however, any of the eggs get accident- 
ally broken, procure a large Bowl or bucket of water just sufficiently hot enough to bear the hand in without 
pain. This would be from icq to 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Immerse the whole of the eggs in water while 
cleaning or renewing the nest (taking the hen off gently while the latter is in progress), then wash every 
soiled egg, holding in the water while doing so. When the whole batch is properly cleaned, return them to 
the nest, placing the hen upon them immediately. Should any portion of the broken egg or eggs adhere to 
the breast of the hen, a sponging with the warm water will remove the mess; but if left undone, it is an 
absolute certainty that more eggs will be broken the next time the hen leaves the nest, by adhering to the 
portion of the first broken one left on the feathers. If this is not attended to, and done in a thorough 
manner, the whole batch runs the greatest risk of being entirely spoilt, through being covered more or less 
with filth, which will effectually prevent the remotest possibility of any of the eggs hatching. 
In extremely warm, dry weather a little water sprinkled around the ne^t will greatly assist matters, as in 
very dry, windy, or hot weather the membrane surrounding the chicken will be as dry as parchment, and the 
chicken, being unable to turn round so as to crack the shell to extricate itself, will perish. It will be noticed 
that when a hen roams away, and stealthily lays her eggs, she will invariably choose a cool, shady spot, and 
by coming off to obtain food and water, and walking on the dewy grass, her breast and underfeather become 
damp or wet, which materially assists in giving the eggs the necessary moisture. This is completely frustrated 
if the hen is set under ordinary conditions, such as in a box with dry straw only. Where a box is intended to 
be used, a moderate quantity of damp earth should be placed on the bottom, the straw on top ; but where 
practicable at all, set them on the ground as before advised. A little attention given this important 
detail in the management of the sitting hen will be highly beneficial to the embryo chicken. In damp or wet 
weather this is unnecessary, as the surrounding atmosphere contains sufficient moisture to do what is re- 
quired. In severely cold or frosty weather great care will be needed to prevent the hen from being absent 
from the eggs longer than a quarter of an hour, or even that length of time with valuable eggs (especially 
during the first few days of incubation) would most likely prove fatal. 
Minute parasites are another frequent cause of failure, being often so small that they cannot be 
distinguished by just a cursory glance. If these are noticed on close inspection, the solution of Carbolic 
Acid, before-mentioned in this chapter, rubbed on the hen's breast, under the wings, vent, and fluff, will 
set matters straight. Many eggs failing to hatch can be traced to this cause ; and, as the remedy given is a 
reliable preventive, if applied when first the hen is placed on the eggs, and is such a simple operation, 
there is no reason why it should be neglected. 
Many beginners give no thought to the fact of how many eggs a hen can completely cover, or how many 
chickens she can nurse when hatched ; their idea is to get as many eggs under a hen as possible. This 
works out its own end in poor results, as, by placing too many under, the eggs in turn get chilled through the hen 
constantly changing her position. Again, whatever number are given the hen, in Jhe first place, are best 
marked with a ring of ink right round the middle of the egg; this can be seen at a glance without handling, 
and is preferable to marking at either end. It will be found that in many instances the hen will lay two or 
more eggs after taking to the nest. These are better removed, as, if there is a day or two difference in the 
date of the eggs starting incubation, the same interval will be noticed on their hatching ; and in any case, if 
the proper number are given the hen at first, any increase would be unwise. For the average-sized broody 
hen we consider eight to eleven eggs quite sufficient, and it will be proved that better results are obtained 
from these numbers than from a larger quantity set under hens the same size. 
To manage nervous, wild, or restless hens, it is advisable to cover them with a box larger than the nest, 
with i-inch holes bored at close intervals for ventilation ; this keeps them quiet for a few days, when it can 
generally be dispensed with. Our system has been for years to see that the hen is thoroughly broody. Take 
her to the house at night, place her down in front of the eggs, and by the aid of a light, if she is, to use a 
well-known Colonial phrase, " on the job," she will walk quietly on to the nest and settle herself comfortably. 
This, of course, only applies to quiet, docile hens, not to those of the termagant variety, which are best 
