MULCHING THE BREEDING BED ON THE KELLOGG FARMS 
the Soil 
for Strawberries 
and what is called "black soil." So far as the 
preparation in the way of supplying plant food 
is concerned, the methods 
Preparing herein given will do for any 
of these, but in the handling 
of these soils from the view- 
point of their mechanical conditions quite differ- 
ent methods must be employed. In the case of 
soils in which the sandy quality predominates, 
and where the particles are coarse, the surface 
should be rolled and thoroughly compacted, so 
that the plants may rest in a firm and close-fitting 
garment of earth. Roots of plants must have 
air and nothing must be permitted to interfere 
with their respiratory processes; on the other 
hand they must not be given too much air, and 
a loose, coarse soil will permit this if not properly 
firmed. Then, nature looks after the needs of 
the plants as to air by drawing the water in the 
soil close against the soil grains and by adhesion 
holding it there to dissolve the food grains in 
the soil so that the little cells in the roots of the 
plants may take them in and thus be nourished. 
This water serves to preserve air passages as 
well, and thus the plants are assured a constant 
circulation of air. What is said here applies 
equally to any loose soil. 
CLAY soil, on the other hand, calls for just 
the reverse treatment. It is the nature of 
clay to compact itself, even to the point of ex- 
cluding the air, and therefore the work done 
must be with a view to preserving a circulation 
of air at all times. Thus we see the necessity 
of constant stirring of clay 
soils while plants are grow- 
ing in order that the p ro- 
cesses of decay of the plant- 
food materials in the soil be normally maintained. 
Cultivation, therefore, should be deeper in clay 
than in sandy soils — say four inches deep. How- 
ever, in doing this be careful to see that the 
cultivator teeth do not cut the roots of the 
Proper Treatment 
for 
Clay Soils 
plants. The way to avoid this is lo have the two 
teeth next the plant one and a half inches shorter 
than those working in the center of the rows. 
Your blacksmith may shorten the teeth as re- 
quired. Where the soil is heavy it should be 
gone over with a five-tooth cultivator as fre- 
quently as every two weeks. This will stir the 
center between the rows deeply, and the result will 
immediately be observable. Remember this, 
the nature of the soil has not so much to do 
with success with strawberries; success depends 
upon the grower's proper handling of the par- 
ticular soil with which he has to deal. Clay 
soil, then, should not be rolled as firmly as in 
the case of sand soils; its surface should be left 
somewhat rough, which will keep the soil grains 
from running together when it rains. And 
never work it either before or after plants are set 
until it is in condition to crumble and form a 
soft, grainy surface. 
'TTHERE is no other single implement on the 
farm that serves a better purpose than the 
roller. But there is a right way and a wrong 
way in which it may be used. The right way 
is to first consider duly the grade of soil you are 
working in. If it is a loose, sandy or black 
loamy soil, it will be safe 
to roll very firmly. Firm- ""JJ'j"* 
ing is for two purposes: Ground 
First, it presses the soil grains 
together, preventing an over-supply of air com- 
ing into contact with the bacterial germs. This 
would cause them to work up the plant food 
too rapidly, resulting in a waste of humus and 
plant food. Secondly, firming the soil aids it 
to retain the moisture that has been stored 
up in the subsoil by winter rains and snows. 
Clay and heavy black soils require less firming, 
and we would suggest that the roller should go 
over this grade of soil only enough to break the 
clods. The wrong way is to roll the soil when 
it is the least bit wet. The way to tell when 
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