The most perfect tool 
ever invented for this 
purpose is the perfection 
plant setter. It digs the 
hole leaving in the center 
a cone. It is set with a 
gauge so it can be neith- 
er too deep nor too shal- 
low. Take the plant by 
the crown and hold the 
roots upside down, giv- 
ing it a slight, quick jerk 
and roots will fall over 
the hand when you can 
quickly turn it over the 
cone and the roots will 
arrange themselves even- 
ly around it. Then the 
dirt is quickly brushed 
back into the opening 
and firmed. The cone 
comes clear up under the 
center of the crown, the 
bottom of cone 
being about five ,,5 
inches in diame- 
ter and roots so 
distributed there can be no tangled mass, as it 
gives a circumference and immediate root pastur- 
age of over 15 inches. 
The perfect ion 
plant setter does the. 
work faster than^ 
any other machine; 
that will do it equal- 
ly well. 
The only require- 
ments are that the 
ground shall be 
properly fitted by 
rolling and free 
from .sod, straw, or 
anything which 
would gather on 
the edges of the 
blades in quantity , 
so as to tear the 
cone to pieces. , ■ 
Small stones do not 
interfere if not too 
many. Price of 
setter, ^3.50. 
An absolute nec- 
essity. I wish to 
impress the neces- 
sity of loosening 
the earth around 
the plant by culti- 
vating immediately 
after plants are set 
so that capillary 
action will bring 
the water up above 
the roots hi»1 col- 
lect under the loose 
earth or dust mulch 
and nourish the 
plant during the 
trying ordeal of 
transplanting and 
becoming established. Where you step around 
the plant to firm it about the root you have left the 
particles so close together that the water draws up 
to the surface with great rapidity to be carried off 
with sun and wind. I do not wait a single hour 
after plants are set before cultivating. 
The Cone 
( Ready for the plant) 
Ready (or CoTering 
If the crowns are too low they will rot or make 
a feeble growth. If too high the upper roots will 
be exposed . to wind and die. The new roots 
always start from above the old ones and if the 
plant is not in the ground deep enough they will 
not start. ( See engravings. ) If a liitle loo deep 
new crowns will not start on the side of the plant, 
and if a little too high it will make only a feeble 
growth. I urge great care in doing this work. 
Leaving the ground without cultivation for a few 
days in a dry time kills and stunts more plants 
than any other negligence you are liable to com- 
mit. To have a boy drop plants ahead of the set- 
ter, often leaving them five minutes in bright sun 
and drying winds is sure death or permanent in- 
jury. Don't do it. Put a piece of manilla paper 
in the bottom of a basket and pour in a quart of 
water and then open the bunches of plants and set 
the roots in it and take them out as needed. Do 
not let them stand in water only a few minutes 
before setting as they become soaked and injured. 
If the weather is cloudy and roots moist do not 
wet them at all. 
PICKING BLOSSOMS. 
It is of the utmost importance that blossoms be 
removed on spring set plants as soon as the buds 
start. The production of pollen and receiving 
fluid of the pistil is the most devitalizing and ex- 
haustive process the plant is ever called upon to 
perform. 
They form all their fruit buds in the fall ready to 
bloom out on the first warm days of spring. We 
then take them up for transplanting and before 
they can make roots to sustain them the devitaliz- 
ing process begins and is sure to lessen fruiting 
vigor. We are always very particular about this. 
It will retard the growth all summer, and greatly 
shorten next season's crop of fruit. 
INSECTS. 
The only insect likely to do serious damage in 
strawberries is the white grub or larvae of the May 
beetle. The larvce feed on the roots of grass and 
are often found so thick in old June grass sod 
or pasture as to destroy it. They are passion- 
ately fond of strawberry roots and great care 
should be exercised not to set plants on ground 
infested with them. They remain in this larval 
state for two or three years, doing the most dam- 
age the second season. 
Grubs similar to these are often found in man- 
ure and old wood, but that kind does not eat roots 
and is therefore harmless. As there are so many 
kinds it will be safer to send some of those found 
in your ground to the entomologist at your State 
.Agricultural College and ascertain if they are the 
true May beetle. They can be sent by mail. They 
very rarely or never lay their eggs in fresh culti- 
vated ground so that if the land has been in any 
hoed crop for one or two years previous there will 
be no danger. Examine old strawberry beds care- 
fully before resetting. 
CARE OF AN OLD BED. 
Plants grown in hills or hedge row will fruit 
heavily three or four years if good culture be given 
them and fertility is maintained. As soon as fruit 
is picked stir up the straw and get it dry and burn 
it off to kill insects and fungi and cultivate at once. 
The crowns of plants grown in this way being so 
prominent it is safer not to put much straw 
directly on the plants for burning 
18 
