THERE are only two ways to grow strawberries, 
the profitable way and the unprofitable 
way. 
Past experience proves that the Kellogg Way 
is the easiest, most simple, and most profitable way 
because it is the practical and common-sense way. 
You cannot aft'ord to use your valuable land and 
spend your time and hard-earned dollars trying to 
grow strawberries the way which already has proved 
unprofitable. 
The Kellogg Way not only is endorsed by our 
customers but also has the endorsement of every 
agricultural college in the country. No scientist 
or horticulturist can criticize the Kellogg Way 
because it is in accordance with the laws of nature. 
It is inevitable that nature has full control of all 
crops, therefore the more closely we follow the 
laws of nature, the greater the crop and the bigger 
the profit. On the other hand^ when we ignore the 
laws of nature, we fail absolutely. In presenting 
herewith the Kellogg Way, we have described, 
step by step, every detail in a manner which will 
make it easy for all to understand and follow. 
You will observe that the Kellogg Way means 
simply working in harmony with the laws of nature. 
If we have failed to explain some feature which 
concerns you personally, or if there is anything 
which is not perfectly clear to you, ask all the 
questions you wish and our Free Service Depart- 
ment will give you just the information you desire. 
Soil Preparation 
The first step in preparing the soil for straw- 
berries is to plow or spade your groiuid just as 
early in the spring as conditions will permit. Ground 
plowed in the fall should also be re-plowed in the 
spring. Pulverize the soil to the full depth of the 
plowing. In fields this is best done with spike, 
spring-tooth, or Acme harrow, or with disc. In 
gardens or back yards, a common garden rake is 
ideal. The sooner you pulverize the soil after it 
has been plowed or spaded, the more easily and 
more thoroughly this work can be done. If your 
soil is of a loose nature, it should be pressed down 
with roller or float. If it is heavy and ea.sily 
packed, less rolling will be necessary, just enough 
to break up the clods. If it is convenient, manure 
the ground during the winter or early spring 
months, applying about twenty two-hor.se loads 
per acre. This should be scattered imiformly over 
the ground. We have learned through experience 
that it is not absolutely necessary to apply the 
manure before plowing, as you will get the full 
benefit from manure spread evenly between the 
rows after the plants are set. When the manure 
is applied in this maimer, it serves a double purpose: 
First, it acts as a mulching protecting the groimd 
from the direct rays of the sun, thereby retaining 
moisture and preventing the formation of crust; 
and second, every rain liberates some of the plant 
food contained in the manure which is immediately 
taken up by the soil and used by the plants. This 
top-dressing of manure will not interfere with culti- 
vation, but on the contrary, each time you cultivate, 
the manure will become more thoroughly mixed 
with the surface of the soil where the plants 
will get full benefit from it. Last season we applied 
eighteen big carloads of manure as top-dressing. 
This is the most economical method of fertihzing 
because it requires only about eight or ten two- 
horse loads per acre. For the average Kellogg 
strawberry garden, only four or five wheelbarrow 
loads of manure are required. If you cannot get 
ordinary stable manure, pulverized or shredded 
manure makes a splendid top-dressing and may 
be obtained from the Pulverized Manure Company, 
Union Stock Yards, Chicago. This should be 
applied at the rate of about one ton per acre, or 
from 50 to 100 pounds for a Kellogg strawberry 
garden. 
Sod Land 
Blue grass, clover, or alfalfa sod, also land 
which has recently produced a crop of soy beans, 
velvet beans, cow peas, or vetch, is in ideal condition 
for strawberries and will grow a splendid crop of 
berries without the application of manure. The 
crop will be larger, however, if manure is applied. 
Timothy sod will grow good strawberries when 
properly fertilized, but there is some danger of 
white grubs existing in such sod and unless plowed 
late in the fall, we would not recommend it as 
desirable for strawberry plants. 
The reason white grubs are found more often 
in timothy than any other sod is on account of its 
wiry roots. We never have experienced any loss 
from wliite grubs when growing strawberries on 
freshly plowed blue grass, clover, or alfalfa sod. 
For the amount expended, nothing adds more 
fertility to the soil tnan some legume crop such 
as cow peas, velvet beans, soy beans, or vetch. 
Setting Plants 
Strawberry plants are set in the same manner 
as cabbage, tomato, or any other vegetable plants. 
Simply make an opening in the soil with spade or 
dibble, put the roots of the plant straight down 
into the opening, and press the soil firmly against 
the roots. Be sure that you have the crown or 
heart of the plant above the surface of the ground. 
Plants should be pruned before they are set, but 
this is unnecessary when you set the Kellogg 
Pedigree Plants because they are pruned and all 
ready for selling when you receive them. 
Trenching or Heeling-in Plants 
For the benefit of those who cannot set their 
plants when they receive them, we give herewith 
instructions for keeping the plants in good condition 
until they are set. First: Make a trench or 
V-shaped furrow, then open the bunches of plants 
and place them, roots downward, in this trench. 
The plants should be spread out so that when the 
soil is filled back into the trench it may be pressed 
firmly against the roots of all the plants. Severtd 
