RM.KELLOGG COMPANY THREE RIVERS. MICn. 
i^^i 
A KELLOGG STRAWBERRY GARDEN OWNED BY MR. JOHN CROSS, THREE RIVERS, MICH. 
Along the driveway, under young fruit trees, this Kellogg Strawberry Garden is producing more delicious strawberries than 
Mr. Cross* family of eight can use throughout the entire year. For years Mr. Cross has had a Kellogg Strawberry Garden which 
has fully supplied his large family with the best strawberries that can be grown. 
approximately twenty-five gallons of either of these 
solutions to spray one acre. 
If these directions for preparing solutions and 
spraying are followed, it will be an easy matter 
to control both insects and plant diseases. Pre- 
ventives are always better than cures, and for this 
reason we want to again impress upon you the 
importance of strong, healthy, vigorous plants, 
clean cultivation, and rotation of crops. 
Bear these important essentials in mind, and 
your troubles from insects and plant diseases will 
be practically eliminated. 
Mulching 
This is a very important feature of strawberry 
growing. It protects the plants from injury during 
the alternate freezing and thawing in winter, is 
a great aid in retaining moisture while the plants 
are fruiting, and affords a clean surface for the 
berries to ripen upon, preventing them from 
becoming soiled from the dirt and sand. Mulching 
also aids the grower in controlling weeds and grass 
which otherwise would interfere with the crop. 
Any kind of straw, marsh hay, shredded corn 
fodder, or coarse raanu'e makes an ideal mulching. 
It should be applied early in the winter, soon after 
the first heavy freeze, at the rate of three or four 
two-horse loads to the acre. When manure is 
used, the coarse, strawy material should be applied 
directly over the plants, and the heavy portion 
between the rows. There is a decided advantage 
in using manure for mulching because it also adds 
greatly to the fertility of the soil, thereby serving 
a double purpose. The mulching should remain 
over the plants until early in the spring, when it 
should be removed from directly over the plants 
to the spaces between the rows. This gives a 
heavy application between the rows and also relieves 
the plants from any obstruction which might inter- 
fere with their growth. This, like all other work 
connected with strawberry growing, is easily and 
quickly done. 
Weeding tlie Fruiting Bed 
Weeds and grass never should be allowed to grow 
in the fruiting bed. This obnoxious growth is 
easily and quickly removed. It may be pulled by 
hand after a rain or cut out with a sharp hoe. 
When plants are midched, the easiest and quickest 
way is to pull weeds by hand. If the strawberry 
field or garden is kept free from all obnoxious 
growth during fruiting time, the plants will grow 
more vigorously, thereby producing a bigger crop 
of better berries. It also makes the work of pick- 
ing much easier, quicker and more satisfactory to 
the pickers, and is a great preventive against insects. 
A clean fruiting bed always will fruit longer 
than a weedy one because the plants will better 
retain their vigor, thereby enabhng them to mature 
their full crop. 
After Harvest 
Strawberry plants may be allowed to fruit for 
two full years if the bed is properly prepared for 
the second years' crop. 
After the plants have completed their first crop 
of berries, the foliage should be mowed off close 
to the ground with sickle, scythe, or mowing 
machine. All litter such as foliage and mulching 
should be removed from the bed and the plants 
cultivated the same as a newly set bed. After the 
first cultivation, fine soil should be raked over the 
plants to a depth of about one-half inch, just 
enough to cover the crowns. When this is done, 
the new growth soon will come up through the soil 
and a new set of roots will form just above the ohi 
root system. When plants are grown in hills, all 
runners should be pruned the same as the first 
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