50 
SIDI-ABDALLAH I. 
couscous of millet and mutton was served up. Six of us 
partook of the dish, and we ate with our fingers ; but in as 
cleanly a way as was possible under such circumstances, Sidi- 
Abdallahi, according to the custom of his countrymen, did 
not say a word to me. He was a mild, quiet, reserved man. 
His age might be about forty or forty-five. He was five 
feet high, stout and pitted with the small-pox. His coun- 
tenance was pleasing, his manners grave, and rather digni- 
fied. He had no fault but his religious fanaticism. 
After bidding my host good night, I went to repose upon 
a mat which was spread upon the ground in my new lodging. 
At Timbuctoo the nights are as hot as the days, and I could 
get no rest in the chamber which had been prepared for me. 
I removed to the court adjoining the house, but still found it 
impossible to sleep. The heat was oppressive ; not a breath 
of air freshened the atmosphere. In the whole course of 
my travels I never found myself more uncomfortable. 
On the morning of the 21st of Apvil, I went to pay my 
respects to my host, who received me with affability ; after- 
wards I took a turn round the city. I found it neither so 
large nor so populous as I had expected. Its commerce is 
not so considerable as fame has reported. There was not 
as at Jenne, a concourse of strangers from all parts of 
the Soudan. I saw in the streets of Timbuctoo only the 
camels, which had arrived from Cabra laden with the mer- 
chandise of the flotilla, a few groups of the inhabitants 
sitting on mats, conversing together, and Moors lying 
asleep in the shade before their doors. In a word, every 
thing had a dull appearance. 
I was surprised at the inactivity, I may even say, indo- 
lence, displayed in the city. Some colat-nut venders were 
crying their goods in the streets, as at Jenne. 
About four in the afternoon, when the heat had dimi- 
nished, I saw several negro traders, all well clothed and 
mounted on good horses richly harnessed, go out to ride. 
