162 
BOUNOU. 
utterly forfeited his reputation as a pious Musulman had he 
acted otherwise. These two men were excellent company to 
me : they consoled me ander the insults to which I was 
incessantly exposed, and greatly alleviated the hardships of 
my lot during this long and toilsome journey ; for I should 
probably have encountered still worse usage but for their 
presence, which imposed some restraint on my guide and 
his family. The marabouts had even the kindness to give 
me drink, when, as it frequently happened, water was re- 
fused me. 
On the ] 4th at three in the morning, we took our de- 
parture, slowly directing our course E. N. E., through nu- 
merous plantations of dates; the soil was broken by hills 
of loose sand. 
About eight in the morning, we passed a large village 
called Bounou, surrounded by beautiful palm-trees. About 
ten we came to a hard soil covered with small black and 
yellow pebbles; here we met six Berber horsemen, all well 
mounted, and armed with sabres and muskets; they ad- 
vanced at full speed to meet us with hostile intentions, 
pointing their loaded muskets : the six Berbers who formed 
our escort, with four well armed Moors, placed themselves 
at the head of the cavalcade, holding their weapons in 
readiness to receive the enemy. The two parties halted 
within a certain distance, when the Berbers parleyed to- 
gether in their own language, still holding their muskets 
ready for firing. As soon as they recognised each other 
to be countrymen, they saluted; and we pursued our route 
without molestation. What a country is this, in which it is 
impossible to stir a step without danger of being robbed 
and even murdered by one's neighbours! We continued our 
course in the same direction over a hard and stony soil, 
and passed an ancient village in ruins, where the minaret 
of a mosque is still to be seen; beside it is a well at which 
travellers quench their thirst; one of the Trajacant Moors 
