GHOURLAND 
175 
my back ; they advised me not to go too far from the vil- 
lage, because there were thieves, who, in the supposition that 
I had brought much gold from the Soudan, might attack me. 
The Moorish merchants who came for their goods made a 
single mule carry the burden of a camel. 1 took mine upon 
my shoulder and followed my guide to the house of old 
Haggi-Le-Mekke, the chief of Ghourland. I passed in 
my way through several long and narrow streets, and 
arrived at the house of my new host. An inner court 
formed the entrance both to the chambers and magazines. 
Part of this court was covered by a shed, supported by 
trunks of palm-trees, in the middle of which was a sort of 
sky-light. A staircase of earth led to the terraced roof of 
the house. I deposited the bag containing my notes in a 
locked-up warehouse, and, tlie bag itself being padlocked, 
I was set at ease respecting the curiosity of the Moors. 
Our host gave us for breakfast some excellent dates, 
so ripe that they resembled preserves, and added a small 
piece of new wheaten bread : this would have been a sump- 
tuous regale, had not the water which we drank with it been 
brackish. The young sons of Haggi received me kindly ; 
they congratulated me more particularly upon the resolution 
I had taken to forsake the christians and unite myself with 
the Musulmans; telUng me that I was under the special 
protection of God, and that all who should do me good 
would be favorites with the prophet. I need not, they added, 
feel any further uneasiness as to my return to my country ; 
now that I was at Tafilet, I should find no difficulty in 
reaching the place of my birth, and they w^ould themselves 
defray the expense of my journey to Fez, which should cost 
me nothing. In conclusion, they invited me to remain with 
them, assuring me that they would supply all my wants. 
My new hosts seemed so well disposed towards me that 
I expected an apartment at their house, but was disappointed, 
for, after breakfast, they recommended me to go and engage 
