202 ARRIVAL AT FEZ. 
air of supplication, that he had no means of making such a 
present^ the Moor vehemently insisted, and, seizing the 
Israelite by a lock of his hair, drew his poniard with an 
apparent intention of killing him ; quaking with fear the 
poor wretch cried out with all his might, " Oh ! spare me, 
my lord, for the love of God." The Moor at length re- 
leased him, and the Jew ran off at his utmost speed. 
Moula-Sitec called me to his presence, and inquired, as 
though he doubted my sincerity, whether 1 loved the Musul- 
mans ; he then made me recite some verses of the Koran, 
and at length informed me that on the following day we 
should reach Fez, which town is sometimes visited by 
christians. 
About nine in the evening, great bowls of couscous were 
served for supper. The sherifs, being persons of high dis- 
tinction, ate first, and sent us the remainder. 
On the 12th of August, at five a. m. we quitted Soforo, 
and again observed in its outskirts a long line of pleasing gar- 
dens : the road, shaded by trellises of fig-trees, is paved with 
flints to the distance of nearly three or four miles from the 
town. As we gaily pursued our route northwards, we fell 
in with many Jews proceeding to the market of Fez, which 
place we also reached about noon. The road had been good, 
less stony than that we had previously traversed ; but the 
ground was little cultivated. 
Having neither acquaintance nor letters of recommen- 
dation, I took up my lodging with my muleteer at the fan- 
dac. After a short repose upon a mat, I was desirous of vi- 
siting the market. To reach it 1 passed through several dirty 
narrow streets of low buildings. The market is held in a 
street under a roof of trellis-work and straw ; the dealers oc- 
cupy little shops^ five or six feet square, raised about three 
feet above the surface of the ground. Men keep these shops 
and sit there the whole day in the fashion of tailors on their 
board. No one took notice of me, and 1 bought for three fe- 
