TRAVELS IN AFRICA, 
CHAP. IX. 
UPPER EGYPT. 
Thebes — Site and antiquities — Painted caverns — Their difcovery 
and plan — Manners of the people at Thebes — Jfna — Fugitive 
Beys — Antiquities — Rain — AJfuan or Syene — Objlacles to far~ 
ther progrefs — Return to Ghenne. 
I FOUND the inhabitants of the Thebaic diftrid had been re- 
cently in open rebellion againft the Mamluks, but they were 
now fomewhat more quiet. The Troglodytes of the caverns re- 
mained tumultuous, and fometimes oppofed the troops of the 
Bey, by firing from their recefles ; at other times they would 
retreat to the mountains, and leave all purfuit behind. 
The mafly and magnificent forms of the ruins that remain 
of antient Thebes, the capital of Egypt, the city of Jove, the 
city with a hundred gates, muft infpire every intelligent fpec- 
tator with awe and admiration. DifFufed on both fides of the 
Nile, their extent confirms the claffical obfervations, and Ho- 
mer's animated defcription ruflies into the memory : 
" Egyptian Thebes, in whofe palaces vafl wealth is ftored; from 
" each of whofe hundred gates ifTue two hundred warriors, with their 
" horfes and chariots." 
Thefe 
