4o6 TRAVELS IN AFRICA, 
the Syrlac ftlll continues to be a living language ; defcendlng 
from father to fon, without the ufe of books. Two of the 
muleteers I obferved to converfe together more willingly in 
that language, than in the Arabic, which in found it nearly 
refembles. 
On the 19th pafled under Dahr-el-chur, fuppofed to be the 
higheft fummit of the Anti-Libanian chain of mountains. The 
following day having fet out four and a half hours before day- 
break, the muleteers loft the road, and we were obliged to 
wait for funrife, chilled with the intenfe cold of thefe high 
mountains, which we felt feverely in our hands and feet. 
Arrived at Balbec about noon the fame day, after defcending 
for nearly three hours through a ravine, or deep glen in the 
mountain, a rugged and, in fome places, a fteep road. 
From the high grounds we had a perfedt view of Balbec, 
and went to feek our lodging under fome walnut-trees, on the 
North of the caftle. Some precaution was neceffary againft 
the Metaweli, Mohammedans of the fed of Ali, who once 
formed a powerful and ferocious tribe ; even now, though 
crufhed in a great degree by the exertions of Jezzar, they 
continue to perfecute ftrangers, who have often fuffered from 
their predatory difpofition. 
The antiquities of Balbec have been often defcribed, and \ 
did not obferve any thing particular to add on that topic. 
Proceeded to Zahhle, a pleafant town among the mountains. 
Obferved the Lombardy poplar in abundance. At Zabhle met 
with 
