266 
FESTIVAL OF THE SALAM. 
the name of a christian in abhorrence ; and yet they do not 
despise Europeans. It is rehgious fanaticism alone that 
makes them view us unfavourably, and even if they had dis- 
covered who I was, it is possible that they would not have 
ill-treated me, though they would very probably have robbed 
me, and prevented me from continuing my journey. I found 
the inhabitants of Kankan as troublesome, and as much 
addicted to begging, as those of Cambaya, and not more 
generous. I received only a few colat-nuts from them ; but 
the chief certainly made me a present of a bit of meat, at 
the solicitation of Mohammed, a Moor who was settled here. 
I had not asked Mohammed to make this request, but he 
reckoned on getting his share of the feast ; and accordingly 
he and I made a good supper of the chiefs present. 
The 5th of July was the festival of the Salam, which 
is always celebrated with great pomp by the Musulmans. 
Lamfia had on the preceding day asked me whether I in- 
tended to buy any meat to celebrate the festival. I told him, 
that as I had a long journey to perform, with but little to 
defray my expences, it behoved me to be economical, if I 
did not wish to be left on the road : he made no reply, but 
did not appear well pleased. I was present at the festival in 
company with my guide. It was held on an extensive plain 
east of the village, not far from the Milo. In passing through 
the streets, I observed several venerable old men, clothed 
in short scarlet mantles, the edges of which were trimmed 
with a yellow sprigged cotton, in imitation of gold lace. They 
walked separately, and were followed by a numerous train. 
As they proceeded along, they chanted Allah-akhaVy Allah- 
akhar^ la ilia il-Allah, Allah-akhar, &c. ; these words were 
repeated by their retinue, which increased in number every 
minute. In their right hands they held lances, and they 
wore red caps on their heads. On arriving at the plain, I 
saw a numerous concourse of people attired in a motley 
variety of costumes. The greater part wore the dress of the 
