446 
KAIMOU, THE GUIDE. 
old guide asked me to go up to my chamber ; he ascended 
before me and seated himself on the mat. He began by 
congratulating me, and then addressed me in a long speech, 
in which he assured me that I ought to consider myself 
very fortunate, in having reached Jenne without experienc- 
ing any serious disaster or being ill-treated by the infidels. 
He said it was very astonishing that, considering my white 
colour, which was so strange to the people, I should have 
travelled over so large a tract of country without being 
robbed. He added that I was in a great measure indebted 
to him for my safety, and that he trusted I would reward 
him for his important services. He then paused and looked 
me stedfastly in the face, as much as to ask me what 1 
thought of his speech. I saw that he wished to be paid 
without further delay, and I immediately gave him a pair of 
scissors, two yards of coloured calico, three sheets of paper, 
and a string of thirty red glass beads for his wives. In 
France these trifles might have been worth about five francs, 
but at Jenne their value was at least three times as great. 
The old man had partly supplied me with provisions 
on my journey, for which I made him some little compen- 
sation by presents, consisting of bits of cloth. At all events, 
it would have been difficult to travel cheaper in Africa. 
Poor Kai-mou was however perfectly satisfied ; indeed, 
my generosity seemed to have exceeded his expectations, 
and he joyfully overwhelmed me with blessings. I wished 
to go immediately to the Arab sherif ; but he insisted on 
my staying to dine with him, observing that next day we 
should have time enough to go and see the Moor, to whom 
he promised to speak in my behalf. He ordered one of 
his women to buy some fresh fish and rice, to make amends 
for our bad living the few preceding days. Our host, who 
was already prepossessed in my favour, came to accompany 
me to the mosque, to attend the six o'clock prayer. I saw 
