XVI 
RESIDENCE AT TARAPOTO 
51 
journeys with mules, but though there are a few 
mules there are no roads on which they can be 
taken with cargoes. Between Moyobamba and the 
Huallaga all cargoes must be carried on Indians' 
backs, and indeed throughout the eastern slope of 
the Cordillera the roads rarely admit of any 
other mode. The number of Indians is constantly 
diminishing, and barely suffices for the ordinary 
traffic of the district. I have ridden a few times 
across the pampa to the hills, but for longer excur- 
sions this mode does not suit. The journey 
alluded to at the opening of my letter was to visit 
a mountain lying beyond the Mayo, at two days 
from Moyobamba and three from Tarapoto. It is 
called the Campana, from some fancied resemblance 
to a bell, and the road crosses it at about 3500 
feet ^ (by barometer) above the plain of Tarapoto ; 
but there is a peak to northward of the pass rising 
a thousand feet higher. It differs notably from 
the adjacent mountains by being nearly all pasto, 
only the valleys and ravines towards its base being 
filled with forest, in which abundance of palms are 
conspicuous. The only habitation there is a chacra 
on the side next Moyobamba, at 1500 feet below 
the pass, and with no other dwelling nearer than a 
day's journey. Here I established myself with a 
stock of paper, and with provisions for three weeks, 
which I had taken the necessary precaution of 
carrying with me from Tarapoto. My cargoes 
loaded five men on the way thither and six on the 
return. I have reason to be satisfied with my 
success at the Campana, and I should probably 
^ Perhaps 5000 feet above the sea, but I have no barometric readings 
below the mouth of the Rio Negro. 
