XVIII CANELOS TO BANOS 141 
plantations of yucas, plantains, yams, etc., and 
about nine we reached a house where we found an 
old man and several women. Here we remained 
an hour, and I bought a cock of the old man, 
though I must needs shoot it with my gun, as it 
was wild and would not allow itself to be caught, 
he said. After a short chase among the wet 
yucas, I brought it down and we bore it off in 
triumph. It took us two hours more to reach the 
centre of the settlement, where are the Curaca's 
and two other houses. The way was very muddy, 
and in that short distance traversed by above 
twenty streams, with steep slippery descents to 
them. It was noon as we reached the Curaca's 
house. We had had drizzling rain for some time 
this morning, which with the heavy rain of yester- 
day and the soft muddy nature of the earth had 
put the track in very bad order and we reached 
our halting-place in pitiable plight. A good many 
years ago, it seems, some missionary had induced 
these Jibaros to become Christians, and to erect a 
church and convent, after the fashion of those of 
Canelos and Puca-yacu, but they have long ago 
renounced Christianity and the church has fallen to 
decay. The convent was still tenantable and we 
took possession of it — that is, I and my servants, 
for the Indians installed themselves in the Curaca's 
house. The Curaca was absent in the forest and 
did not return till evening, when I bought a couple 
of fowls and some plantains of him. His name is 
Hueleca — a young man of middle stature, slender in 
body, but with remarkably muscular arms and legs. 
Compared with our " Christian " Indians from 
Sara-yacu, we found him a person of gentlemanly 
